Hello, dear readers of my blog, I hope you liked my last post about hiking? Those who liked it, great, but those who didn’t like it, I apologize, you can’t please everyone. I want to talk to you today about diseases aquarium fish OK. The article will be large and I plan to divide this topic into several posts, I don’t know exactly how many parts it will be, 2 or 3, I haven’t decided yet.
Main diseases of aquarium fish
This infection occurs in aquarium fish due to small blood-sucking crustaceans (argulus), which actively gnaw on almost all types of fish; very often the younger generation in spawning grounds suffers from this nasty thing. The crustacean is about 4-7 millimeters long, it has a fairly wide cephalothorax, at the bottom of which there is a proboscis, eyes, suckers, a stylet and four pairs of legs for swimming.
Over time, thin white threads of mushrooms appear on the fins, skin and gills, which extend perpendicularly from the surface of the fish’s body. After a couple of days, in the place where the threads were, a white coating similar to cotton wool. The longer this nasty thing is on the fish, the more disastrous the consequences. Fungal hyphae begin to penetrate into tissues (gills or muscles), which are subsequently destroyed. Then this nasty thing switches to internal organs, which will inevitably lead to the death of the fish. It is problematic to treat this scourge in a community aquarium, but it is possible. For this, a solution of white streptocide is used (100-200 milligrams per 100 liters of water), or the use of bicillin-5 (500,000 units per 100 liters of water). If you decide to treat your fish with white streptocide, then this must be repeated every 7 days for a month. If you decide to treat with Bicillin-5, then such treatment will last about a week. Before using bicillin, reduce the brightness of the lighting in the aquarium, as it will begin to decompose quickly in bright light.
This specific disease of aquarium fish is caused by ciliates that affect the skin of the fish. The ciliates reproduce outside the fish's body after it breaks the epithelium and descends to the bottom of the aquarium. As a result of reproduction, daughter cells are formed that can float in aquarium water for up to 3 days.
How to cure your pets from this disease? All fish from an infected aquarium must be transferred to an aquarium in which there is no vegetation or soil. Before this, add Ichthyophthiricide (1 ml for every 20 liters of water) or a solution of biomycin (50,000 units per 100 liters of water), sulfuric acid quinine, or hydrochloric acid (0.5 grams) and trypaflavin about 20 milligrams. Since quinine is difficult to dissolve in water, the addition of trypaflavin should be delayed for 3-4 hours. Then gradually increase the temperature in the aquarium to 32 degrees Celsius, and do not forget to observe the behavior of the fish. Turn on strong aeration. After three days, change a third of the water and add fresh water, into which you first pour biomycin in a volume of 50,000 units and 5 milligrams of trypaflavin.
Complete treatment generally lasts for 2 weeks; by day 15, all white bumps should disappear. Feed the fish either tubifex or bloodworms.
How to cure your fish from this scourge? Formaldehyde baths are mainly used, to which 2 ml of a 40 percent formaldehyde solution is added per ten liters of water; free chlorine solution – 1 ml per liter of water. You will have to treat your fish for bone disease for 5-7 days. The soil, plants, and water in the aquarium cannot be changed. For prevention purposes, increase the temperature of the water in the aquarium to 34 degrees and maintain this temperature for a couple of days.
The first part of the review of aquarium fish diseases is over, I also advise you to read the post on my blog, it will be very useful to you. And if you don’t know yet, then I can help you with this. I have an article on this topic on my blog, where I explained everything in detail.
Well, how do you like the article? I tried, I wrote it in two passes, I spent about 5 hours. I look forward to your comments on the post and subscribe to blog updates so as not to miss the next part of the review of aquarium fish diseases. In a few days, I plan to finish the second part and post it on the blog for you to continue reading. See you again, friends, on the blog pages!
P.S. Here's another video about aquarium fish diseases, study for your health!
Aquarium fish, like other pets, can get sick. In the article I will talk about common diseases, the signs by which they are recognized, and also give advice on treatment and prevention.
Main diseases of aquarium fish and methods of treatment at home
Familiarization with the signs various diseases will help you avoid buying sick fish, because aquarium inhabitants are susceptible to infection at any age, regardless of species.
Cockerels, as well as fry of all varieties, are considered one of the most unprotected species. Some diseases are so serious that the purchased pet can die literally after bringing it home.
Time really plays a decisive role in this matter.
Alkalosis or alkaline disease
Alkaline disease can be provoked by too soft acidified water, which becomes so with excessive lighting and large quantities vegetation in the aquarium.
Signs indicating alkalosis:
- tarnish color;
- allocation gill mucus;
- movements are accompanied by convulsive twitching;
- spreading the fins to the sides.
Treatment at home consists of replacing water, the acidity of which corresponds to 7-8.5 pH. They also check the amount of vegetation and adjust the lighting regime.
Plistiphorosis
Main signs of the disease:
- refusal to eat, rapid exhaustion;
- color becomes pale;
- gray and whitish spots form under the skin;
- impaired coordination of movement while swimming;
- gluing fins.
Unfortunately, there are no drugs for plistophorosis, so infected fish die.
It is important to remove the diseased fish when the first signs are detected, and transplant the rest into another container with clean water. The aquarium is thoroughly disinfected (with chlorine or potassium permanganate), the plants are thrown away, and the soil is calcined for disinfection.
Columnaria
The cause of the disease is infection with the rod-shaped bacterium Flexibacter columnaris.
The following manifestations indicate the disease:
- formation near the fish's body or mouth white cotton wool(clouds);
- decreased appetite and activity.
For treatment, it is necessary to place the pet in another container into which phenoxyethanol is added. In addition, baths are made using the drug Merbromin or methylene blue. When internal tissues are damaged, antibiotics are used.
Cold
The cause of the disease lies in the violation temperature regime characteristic of each fish species.
You can recognize the problem by the following symptoms:
- lethargic behavior fish, stick to the surface;
- color fades;
- fin pressing;
- the gills darken and become swollen;
- due to decreased immunity, secondary infection is possible.
Compliance with the conditions for keeping pets, in particular bringing the water to the desired temperature, will help correct the situation.
Gas embolism
The disease is caused by oversaturation of water with oxygen. In this case, the fish’s blood vessels become clogged, which impairs blood circulation.
Main features:
- sudden change in behavior;
- swimming on the side;
- immobility of gill covers;
- air bubbles on the walls of the aquarium, plants and soil.
When bubbles accumulate in the vessels, the fish dies. To eliminate the problem, it is necessary to adjust the operation of the filter and aerator and remove excess plants.
Branchiomycosis
Fungal infection (Branchiomyces demigrans and Branchiomyces sanguinis) affecting the gills of fish.
A decrease in activity and appetite, and the appearance of anomalies in the gill area should alert you. Treatment is carried out with fungicidal drugs after diagnosis has been established.
To determine the problem, tests are taken on the pet.
Saprolegniosis
The causative agent of the disease is Saprolegnia fungi.
To treat, antifungal drugs are used (dissolve a streptocide tablet in water). They also make baths from solutions:
- table salt (5%);
- malachite green oxalate;
- rivanol;
- formalin, etc.
Tuberculosis of fish in an aquarium
The disease is caused by infection with the bacterium Mycobacterium piscium. The most susceptible to the disease are fish belonging to the following families: tropical carp, characin, labyrinth, and carp.
It's easier to cure early stages when the fish is still eating (add kanamycin to the food in an amount of 10 mg per 10 g of food).
Main signs: decreased activity and appetite. More complex forms of tuberculosis are incurable, so the fish are disposed of and the aquarium is carefully treated.
Hexamitosis
The disease is caused by the flagellate entering the stomach, which is possible when using low-quality food, contaminated vegetation or water.
The problem can be recognized by the exhaustion of the pet, white thread-like excrement, and ulcers formed on the body and head. The fish's digestive system is disrupted, its scales darken, and its appetite worsens.
Treatment consists of the following methods:
- baths with the addition of ritrocycline and griseofulvin;
- mixing feed with Ichthyovit, sera Fishtamin, sera bakto, ZMF Hexa-ex;
- use of the drug calomel (0.5 g of product per 250 g of feed).
Costiosis
Reproduction of flagellates occurs by fission in two.
Maximum activity was observed at a temperature of 25-28 degrees.
The main signs indicating the disease:
- desire to itch about something;
- restless behavior;
- attacks of suffocation;
- decreased appetite;
- formation of mucus on the gills;
- appearance gray plaque on the body.
Formaldehyde baths are used as treatment (add 2 ml of 40% formaldehyde solution to 10 liters of water).
You can also use a solution of free chlorine (1 ml per 1 liter of water). The treatment period is 5-7 days.
Asphyxia
Suffocation occurs when the environment is insufficiently enriched with oxygen. More often, such cases occur when the aerator is not working properly or the aquarium is overcrowded.
The following symptoms indicate a problem:
- openness of gill covers;
- intense breathing movements.
The situation can be corrected by urgently relocating the pets to another container with sufficient oxygen. It is also worth adjusting the operation of the aerator and cleaning the container from food debris and debris more often.
Ammonia poisoning and its external signs
With insufficient care of the aquarium, rare changes of water, lack of regular cleaning and a dense population of fish, the water becomes polluted with waste products of the inhabitants.
The disease is recognized by the following signs:
- external darkening of color scales;
- fish stay on the surface, some species try to jump out of the aquarium;
- damage to the gill part.
To fix the problem you need to replace most water in the container, increase aeration, clean decorative items.
Disease Prevention
Most diseases of aquarium fish develop due to violations of the maintenance conditions.
Therefore, the main preventive measure is the creation of conditions favorable for the life of a particular species of fish and their constant maintenance.
Other precautions include:
- regular monitoring water indicators(temperature, acidity, hardness, presence of salts, etc.);
- compliance with the regime feeding and norms;
- use only quality feed, varied diet;
- timely cleaning of the aquarium, changing water;
- proper operation of equipment (aerator, filter, backlight, etc.);
- limited use various drugs and compliance with dosage;
- daily fish behavior control, their condition;
- instant isolation of sick fish;
- prevent overpopulation of fish in the aquarium (observe space standards for each species);
- exclude cohabitation of residents with different conditions of detention;
- Do not place decor or plants in the aquarium that can cause injury to pets.
When the first signs of the disease are detected, treatment measures must be taken immediately. If you have difficulty diagnosing, you should seek help from a specialist.
To reduce the occurrence of unpleasant surprises, you need to regularly carry out preventive maintenance, then nothing will threaten the health of your pets.
Fish, like any living beings, are susceptible to diseases. Timely diagnosis of aquarium fish diseases greatly facilitates their treatment, since most diseases can be suppressed at an early stage.
In aquarium fish, diseases are divided into:
Non-communicable diseases of aquarium fish
Chlorine poisoning
The causes of the disease may be chemical factors (exposure to chlorine). The main symptoms are difficulty breathing, the gills are covered with mucus and their color becomes lighter. The fish behave restlessly, rush around and try to jump out of the pool. Over time, they become lethargic, do not respond to anything and quickly die.
To prevent such a disease, it is necessary to constantly check the level of chlorine in the water. If signs of illness appear in the fish, they must be urgently transplanted into clean water.
Lack of oxygen
The fish behave restlessly, swim near the surface and capture oxygen. One of the signs of lack of air is the behavior of snails, which also rise to the surface. With a lack of oxygen, aquarium fish experience weakened immunity, infertility, suffocation, loss of appetite, which leads to death.
It is necessary to install aeration equipment in the aquarium. Periodically check the filter, aerator and oxygen circulation.
Failure to comply with temperature conditions
Occurs when the temperature in the aquarium is high or low. If the temperature is higher than necessary, then the fish are too active. They gather at the surface of the water due to lack of oxygen. As a result, they experience oxygen starvation and exhaustion.
Too low a temperature is manifested in the slow movements of fish, which are constantly at the bottom, almost motionless. Long stay in cold water leads to colds and possible death. Therefore, it is necessary to constantly monitor the temperature regulator and thermometer when changing water.
Some types tolerate a wide range of temperatures well: neon, gold fish, guppies and others.
Alkali disease (acidosis, alkalosis)
The disease is promoted by increased (alkalosis) or decreased (acidosis) alkali content in water. With alkalosis, the behavior of aquarium fish becomes active, the gills and fins spread out, and the color becomes lighter. Mucus appears on the gills.
Signs of acidosis: fish become shy, less active and mobile. They can swim belly up or sideways. Alkali disease mainly affects those fish species that are adversely affected by changes in acid-base balance(guppies, goldfish, neons, swordtails). It can cause splitting of fins, leading to death.
Treatment consists of gradually changing the level of alkali in the aquarium, bringing it to a neutral value. If the change in balance was abrupt, then the fish must be transplanted into clean water and the alkalinity level should be balanced.
Obesity fish
The disease occurs as a result of excess fat content of feed by 3 percent in herbivorous fish and 5 percent in carnivorous fish. Overfeeding, a monotonous diet or poor nutrition may also cause symptoms of obesity.
As a result of the disease, internal organs (liver, mesenteries, kidneys) are affected. The fish becomes lethargic, its sides become rounded, infertility sets in, which leads to death.
To prevent obesity it is necessary to give different kinds feed, fatty feed with a high protein content, ballast substances and for prevention do not feed for a couple of days. The size of the aquarium should allow the fish to swim actively.
Gas embolism
It appears if the volume of oxygen is exceeded, clogging of blood vessels in fish occurs, and blood circulation is impaired. Therefore, it is necessary to monitor them and the condition of the aquarium. The behavior of the fish is restless, they begin to swim on their sides, the gill covers are motionless.
The appearance of small air bubbles on walls, plants and soil indicates the occurrence of a disease. Bubbles can be on the fish itself and affect internal organs. If they accumulate in blood vessels, then an embolism occurs and the fish dies.
IN in this case check how air circulates and the presence of excess plants, which contribute to the release of excessive oxygen and soil contamination.
Contagious diseases of aquarium fish
White-skinned
With this disease in aquarium fish there is a change appearance– skin color becomes lighter or white. The fish begin to swim on the surface. The causative agent is the bacterium Pseudomonas dermoalba, which can enter an aquarium with plants or infected fish.
To treat the disease, the fish is placed in a container in which a solution of chloramphenicol is diluted. The soil and water in the aquarium are disinfected.
Fin rot
The most common disease of aquarium fish. Appears as a result of damage to the fins due to poor water quality or bites from other fish. The fins become deformed, decrease in size, and become lighter in color. It may be accompanied by a bacterial disease, in which the body becomes covered with ulcers and the abdomen swells. The disease is caused by bacteria of the Pseudomonas group.
Treatment: low-quality water should be changed, the aquarium and plants should be disinfected. Sick fish are placed in a container with a solution of chloramphenicol. It is better not to keep fish that are incompatible in behavior. Thus, swordtails are incompatible with aggressive big fish and so on.
Mycobacteriosis
The disease affects mainly viviparous species of aquarium fish: swordtails, labyrinths, gourami. Their behavior changes - they lose orientation, there is a disturbance in appetite, they become lethargic and apathetic. In some species, abscesses and ulcers appear on the body, and bulging eyes occur; others become blind, their skin becomes covered with black dots, and bones may protrude.
Cure is possible at an early stage of the disease, for which copper sulfate, trypoflavin, and monocycline are used.
Neon disease (Plistiforosis)
The causative agent of the disease is the amoeboid sporozoan. Symptoms of the disease: movements become spasmodic, fish rise to the surface of the aquarium, body position is upside down. Coordination is impaired, loss of appetite is observed, and skin color becomes dull. The fish keeps to itself and avoids schools. Representatives of carp species (barbs, neons, goldfish, etc.) are susceptible to the disease.
Neon disease is practically untreatable, so it is necessary to destroy the diseased fish and thoroughly clean the aquarium.
There is also pseudoneon disease, which is treated with a solution of bactopur (1 tablet per 50 liters of water).
Hexamitosis (hole disease)
The causative agent of the disease, intestinal flagellate, affects the intestines and gallbladder. The carriers are sick fish, sometimes due to poor quality water. Symptoms: loss of appetite, change in color, the fish stays solitary, the appearance of mucous discharge.
The disease can be cured in the early stages. To treat aquarium fish, you need to slowly increase the water temperature to 33-35 degrees or dilute metronidazole in a container (250 mg per 10 liters of water).
Peptic ulcer
The disease is caused by bacteria (Pseudomonas fluorescens) that enter the aquarium with food or from sick fish. Symptoms of the disease are dark spots on the skin of the fish, they gradually turn into ulcers. Bulging eyes are observed, the abdomen enlarges, scales are affected, appetite disappears, and infection penetrates the body.
Necessary timely treatment, for which streptocide (1 tablet per 10 liters of water) or potassium permanganate is used.
Invasive diseases of aquarium fish
Glucose
One of the most dangerous and serious illnesses aquarium fish, affects their entire body and cannot be treated. Symptoms: the fish swim on their sides, bloody and whitish bumps appear on the body. Mostly carp-like fish species (neons, goldfish and others) are susceptible to the disease.
Trichodinosis
Transmitted through contaminated food, plants or soil. Symptoms of the disease: fish rub against the ground, stones, and a light coating appears on the skin. The gills become lighter, become covered with mucus, the fish loses its appetite, and its breathing becomes more frequent.
It is best to treat aquarium fish in the early stages. Sick fish are placed in a container with high water temperature (31 degrees), where methylene or table salt(20 g per 10 l).
Ichthyobodosis
The causative agent of the disease is the flagellate Costia necatris, which gets into the aquarium with plants, food and soil. The skin of a sick fish becomes covered with mucus, and the affected areas gradually decompose. The color of the gills changes, the fins stick together. The fish periodically rises to the surface and swallows air.
To treat the disease, the water in the aquarium is heated to 32-34 degrees or the fish are moved into a container with a solution of methylene salt.
Aquarium fish disease - a very negative episode in the life of an amateur aquarist. Even experienced aquarists with extensive experience are not immune from this trouble. However, many diseases can be successfully treated. If you are attentive enough to the inhabitants of your aquarium, and are ready to look for information in specialized literature and Internet resources, you can quite successfully cope with the problem.
Caused by pathogens.
Threadworms (Nematoda)
Crustaceans (Crustacea)
Bacteria
Fungal diseases
Protozoa
Coelenterates
Flatworms (Plathelmintes)
Acanthocephals
Not caused by pathogens:
Chemical origin (diseases associated with all kinds of poisoning).
Physical origin (diseases associated mainly with improper care of fish: poor water quality, incorrect temperature, etc.).
Improper feeding (diseases associated with improper feeding).
- buy fish and plants only from trusted suppliers;
- maintain isolation periods after purchasing new fish or plants;
- observe optimal housing conditions typical for each type of fish;
- carefully monitor the inhabitants of the aquarium - this way you can notice the symptoms of an incipient disease in time.
Brief overview of disease symptoms
Let's look at the most common symptoms: causing diseases aquarium fish.
External changes - white spots on the body, white or white-blue spots, ulcers, hemorrhages, white plaque, cotton wool-like coating, white “fluff” in the mouth area, increased secretion mucus, destruction of fins and tail, sticking of fins, ruffled scales, bloating of the abdomen, bulging eyes and others.
Changes in behavior - fish swim near the surface, on their sides, head down, tail down, belly up, sway in place, itch and rub against stones, swim in jerks.
Subtle changes - loss of appetite, apathy, unnatural trajectory of movement, change in color.
Disease Prevention
Any disease is easier to prevent than to cure. We offer simple rules, following which you will get rid of many unpleasant moments:
- changing 1/10 of the water in the aquarium once a week;
- weekly cleaning of the soil to remove rotten parts of plants, uneaten food, and fish waste products;
- preventing overcrowding in the aquarium;
- use of high-quality feed, strict adherence to its storage conditions;
- maintaining the correct feeding regimen;
- maintaining optimal temperature conditions, avoiding sharp changes temperatures and hypothermia;
- keeping newly acquired fish in quarantine for two weeks in a quarantine aquarium specially designated for this purpose;
- use of soft containers during transportation to avoid injury;
- strict adherence to drug dosages during drug treatment.
What else you should pay attention to:
- do not place decorations in the aquarium that can injure fish or release toxic substances into the water;
- equip the aquarium with a lid or cover it with glass so as to prevent fish from jumping out;
- If possible, equipment (net, hose, siphon, etc.) should be individual for each aquarium, otherwise it must be thoroughly disinfected after servicing sick fish.
This section should under no circumstances be considered as a guide to self-treatment aquarium fish. Makes sense to buy good book With high-quality photographs, if you are serious about aquarium keeping. If you keep an aquarium as part of your home interior, contact experienced specialists if problems arise.
Information in the section " Diseases of aquarium fish " is constantly updated and updated with new materials. Don't forget to stay tuned for updates.
Good afternoon. Has anyone experienced water blooms in an aquarium? And how did you deal with it?
This happened to me for the first time (for the second day now the aqua has been covered with a blanket, in the evenings I just open it to take out the filter and replace the viscose rag in it with a new one. In appearance, the water is a little better, but I think all I have to do is turn on the light and that’s it. ....it will begin to bloom even more...
It all started with the installation of additional T8 lamps. Before this, the light was very weak, 0.35-0.4 W/l, after which it became 0.85-0.9 W/l. Everything was fine for about 10 days, during which time the CO2 installation was assembled. I contributed parole in small portions every day. Nothing foreshadowed, as they say... But then soil (pebbles) was added, because... the layer in the aquarium was only 3 cm (the store said that there is no need to boil anything. Just rinse and add directly to the aquarium). This is where it all started. At first the water simply became cloudy, then it began to turn green and every day it got worse....
Maybe someone can tell me what could have caused such an imbalance... Or is it because all my actions to “optimize” the aquarium were done almost simultaneously? And, most importantly, what to do now????
From
From proper nutrition koi depends not only on their external beauty, but also on the health of the fish and their life expectancy. Balanced food, which has a well-chosen composition and is specially designed for feeding koi in different times of the year is sera KOI Professional.
Winter food for koi
In winter, koi hardly feed, but this does not mean that the fish do not need food at all. At low temperatures in the reservoir, koi are less active, their energy is not wasted, and food reserves are slowly digested. At this time of year, fish look for food at the bottom of the reservoir. All the owner of colored carp can do to help his pets is to feed the fish with sera KOI Professional winter food (SERA KOI Professional Winter Food). This food is recommended to be fed to koi when the pond water temperature drops below 12 degrees.
Due to the low carbohydrate content, this food is well digestible. Protect cell membrane and provide koi with energy from Omega-3 fatty acids (EPA and DHA), which are part of the winter food.
In winter, koi are more vulnerable to diseases because their immunity is lowered. To increase the body's resistance to illnesses, sera has developed a special formula for life-immuno-protection (VITAL-IMMUNE-PROTECT Formula). With this formula you can ensure your koi have a healthy winter.
Summer food for koi
During the warm season, koi become active. Fish that were born in the spring grow actively in the summer. At this time, algae also actively grows, the water becomes less clean and transparent. In addition to this, so that the food does not pollute the reservoir, you should carefully choose the food. The food coating must be optimally absorbed by the fish in order to minimize water pollution. sera KOI Professional Summer Food meets these requirements. This food can be given to koi when the pond water temperature is above 17 degrees. This special summer food is well digestible, has a beneficial effect on the growth and shape of koi, and improves their immune system, and therefore resistance to diseases. All this is achieved through natural garlic, which is included in the life-immuno-protection formula (VITAL-IMMUNE-PROTECT Formula) from SERA.
Spring and autumn food for koi
In the spring and autumn, koi are more often exposed to stress than usual. This is due to the fact that not only the temperature of the water often changes, but also its composition due to rain. To ease the stress of koi, increase their immunity, reduce metabolism and improve the condition of the fish, you should opt for sera KOI Professional spring/autumn food (SERA KOI Professional Spring/Autumn Food). This special food can be given to koi when the water temperature in the pond is below 17 degrees.
sera KOI Professional spring/autumn food is well digestible by fish and thus reduces water pollution, unlike other foods. Stabilized vitamin C and a special formula for life-immuno-protection (VITAL-IMMUNE-PROTECT Formula) from sera have a beneficial effect on the condition of koi.
Food for depth and color clarity of koi
Colored carp are valued for the depth of their color spots and the clarity of their contours. The wrong food can affect the color of the koi, for example turning whites into beige and reds into orange. To prevent this from happening, we recommend sera KOI Professional spirulina color food.
SERA KOI Professional Spirulina Color contains Haematococcus algae, rich in astaxanthin, and spirulina, rich in carotene - all these components have a beneficial effect on the color saturation, depth and shine. The food also contains microelements and minerals necessary for koi. When consuming this food, the koi's immunity and resistance to disease increase thanks to the special vital-immuno-protection formula (VITAL-IMMUNE-PROTECT Formula) from sera.
Another advantage of sera KOI Professional spirulina color food is that it can be given to koi at all times of the year, when the water temperature in the pond is above 8 degrees.
The health, beauty and well-being of koi are in your hands. Buy quality food and rest assured about the health of your fish.
From
Food for bottom aquarium fish can be of various types. All of them basically have the same composition and such feeds differ only in external signs and the manufacturer. There is food available both in tablets and small granules.
Usually they contain or may contain:
A mixture of protein and plant ingredients. Vitamins or a whole vitamin complex. Special minerals and macroelements. However, it is worth remembering that regular food is not suitable for the same catfish. Not only because its composition is not suitable, but also because it is lighter and designed to be eaten on the surface of the water. For catfish, you should use special food for bottom aquarium fish because it is much heavier, falls to the bottom faster and, therefore, other fish do not have time to eat it. Thus, only catfish eat it.
From
Diseases of aquarium fish can be very diverse and, unfortunately, it is not always possible to detect and determine in time what exactly your pet is sick with and for how long.
Causes of fish diseases
The following symptoms are observed:
Coating skin and gill filaments with thick, gray mucus, making breathing difficult; The fish becomes too active and tries to literally “jump” out of the aquarium. Then it seems to calm down, later it becomes lethargic, not reacting to any stimuli, if nothing is done, then death occurs. Also, lack of air in the aquarium can be attributed to a disease of aquarium fish. Symptoms are: the fish actively swallows air from the surface of the aquarium, protruding gills, after a while the fish gets a “burn” of the gills due to the fact that the air temperature outside the aquarium is warmer. This subsequently leads to poor appetite, weakened immunity, slow growth, or even death.
One of the most common problems is also incorrectly selected temperature:
At high temperature, aquarium fish are very active. They rush in different directions, and symptoms of oxygen deficiency also appear, since in heated water there is less of it than the fish need; At low temperatures, lethargy, partial or complete loss of appetite, and slowing of the gill covers (which means slower breathing of the fish) are observed. Very often, due to the low water temperature, the fish simply lies on the bottom or is in the same position, swaying slightly with its whole body. Both in the case of increased and low temperature, keeping fish in such water for a long time leads to weakened immunity and, as a result, to many different diseases.
From
I bought fertilizer for the garden for 80 rubles, I was thinking of feeding my houseplants, but then the following thought crept into my head: “Shouldn’t I read the composition of this fertilizer and scour the Internet about the dangers and benefits of components in an aquarium?”
Composition in g/l not less than: Nitrogen (N) - 4.0; Phosphorus (P2O5) - 3.0; Potassium (K20) - 6.0; humates - 1.0; iron - 0.02, manganese - 0.01, copper - 0.002, zinc - 0.005, molybdenum - 0.001, boron 0.005, cobalt - 0.0005; vitamins.
The only thing that confuses me here is copper and the concentration is 2 mg/l in this fertilizer... Please tell me how harmful and toxic this liquid will be for fish and plants? And how much can you add so that the concentration is 0.15-0.20 mg/l? There is no opportunity to experiment yet, I am new to aquarium keeping and so far the population and the number of plants does not allow me to do this. Tell me: is it possible to add such fertilizer to an aqua with plants and living creatures in general or is it cocoa? The color is brown in light...
