Like the animal that gives them their name, goats are dependable, sturdy, and usually take up a lot of space. However, the proposed sawhorse option can be folded up when not in use, while retaining all the features traditional sawhorses are prized for. We'll show you how to make one goat, but you might want to make a couple or more, taking advantage of the fact that all the tools are already at the ready.
Cut out the details
1. From pine or spruce boards with a section of 19 × 150 mm, cut out the legs A with an allowance of 13 mm in length (see "List of materials", rice. one and 2) and crossbars V final length. File the parts to the required width, trying to remove knots and other defects from the edges. At the lower ends of all legs A make bevels at a 15° angle. Cut the other end of each leg to the final length. (The bevel at the top end of the leg will be formed after assembly.)
2. From a board with a section of 19 × 200 mm, cut out the halves of the shelf WITH. Using a Forstner drill, drill two holes with a diameter of 38 mm in each of the halves (Fig. 3). Draw lines tangent to the holes, and cut out the cutouts that serve as handles with a jigsaw. Smoothly sand or file the edges of the cutouts and mill 6mm roundings on their ribs.
3. Cut a 19x150mm board in half lengthwise and glue the two pieces face to face to make a blank for the top bar D. After the glue has dried, file the workpiece to the final width and length.
assemble frame
1. To make half-timber joints, install a 19 mm thick slotted blade in the saw and make test joints on 19 x 114 mm cuttings, setting the sawing depth to half the thickness of the workpiece. Saw in the legs A and crossbars V cutouts for half-wood connections (Fig. 1 and 2).
2. Glue the leg frames A/B and secure them with clamps. When installing clamps at half-wood joints, in order to evenly distribute pressure over the entire gluing area, place wooden trimmings under the jaws of the clamps. Check the squareness of the assembled frames.
3. On the top edge of each frame A/B form a 15° bevel (photo A).
Set your circular saw to 15° bevel cuts, attach a flat board to the leg frame A/B, and file the bevel at the top edge of the frame.
Finishing and final assembly
1. Finish all parts and assemblies with sandpaper up to 180 grit and soften sharp edges. Vacuum the dust and apply a clear finish. (We applied a coat of semi-matt polyurethane varnish with a brush.)
2. Put one of the frames A/B onto the workbench with the inside facing up. Position the loops (Fig. 1) so that their cylinders are flush with the top edge of the bevel (photo B). Drill pilot holes for the screws with a center drill. Do the same with the other frame, then attach the hinges with screws to one of the frames.
To align the hinge cylinder flush with the edge of the bevel, use a piece of wood. The hinge attached in this way will not interfere with the installation of the top bar D.
3.
Lay the shelf halves WITH on the workbench, turning them upside down so that the handle cutouts are next to each other. Center the hinges on the seam of the halves, drill pilot holes and attach the hinges with screws. By pressing the assembled shelf to the bottom crossbar In one of the frames in the middle between the legs A, center the hinges on the seam and drill pilot holes. Repeat the same with the second frame, this time attaching the hinges to it with screws.
4. Holding frame A/B without shelf perpendicular to another frame A/B/C, align the top hinges with the corresponding pilot holes and attach the hinge cards with screws. Then turn the shelf WITH into position, align the hinges with the pilot holes in the bottom rail V and screw in the screws.
5.
Put the collected goats A/B/C vertically and attach the top bar with clamps D by centering it. Drill counterbores at a 15° angle (Fig. 1 and 1a, photo C). Then drill mounting and pilot holes in the counterbores in the top bar and top rung. V. (To allow the trestle to fold, the top bar is attached to only one frame.) Screw in the screws.
Note. When cutting sheet and board materials, the depth of cut is usually set to 3 mm more than the thickness of the material. At the same time, the saw blade leaves on the object supporting the sheet - the upper barD - shallow cuts. When designing the goats, we provided deep counterbores for the screws for fastening the top bar. This prevents the saw blade from meeting the screw heads, keeping it intact. Do not glue the top bar - this will allow you to replace it when there are too many cuts in it.
Goats are an indispensable tool for any job. For a long time, the author of the DIY joinery channel used temporary, hastily built goats. And mostly outdoors. When the workshop appeared, the question arose about them in the workshop.
These structures made of logs and thick boards, which I used until recently, are heavy and take up a lot of space. Therefore, I decided to make goats more suitable for do-it-yourself work. It turned out to be a very professional model.
A lot of useful things for carpenters in this Chinese store.
The design of the goat and various supports is a great variety. But first of all, he paid attention to the versatility of the design, which allows you to adjust the height of the support bar or saddle, use the goats as a mini-workbench, and also turn them into a roller support to support long workpieces. Here are some examples of such structures.
In the first, I liked the possibility of combining several pairs of goats into a table. Here, the simplicity and collapsibility of the design captivates. In these, the implementation of mechanisms for a fixed change in the height of the saddle is interesting. And the last one was my favorite. And, first of all, due to the presence of a reclining roller bearing and a smooth change in the height of the saddle.
After analyzing many options, he came up with the design of a universal goat. This carpentry trestle consists of an interchangeable T-shaped saddle and a roller bearing with guides inserted into through slots in the body. Legs are cut into the body, connected crossbars, on which a shelf is installed. Also in the body there is a mechanism for fixing the saddle and roller bearing.
The first most important thing when designing carpentry goats is to determine their height. In general, in a workshop, for the comfort of work, it is best to make the height of all work surfaces: a goat, a workbench, a desktop tabletop, a circular saw table, and the like, make them uniform and corresponding to your height.
To determine the height of work surfaces in the workshop that is optimal for your height, do the following. Put on your work shoes, stand up straight, spread your legs shoulder-width apart, relax your shoulders, lower your arms along your body, bend your wrists so that your palms are parallel to the floor. The distance from the floor to the base of the palms will be the height of the working surface that is optimal for your height. For the growth of the author of the video, this is about 88 cm. Accordingly, he made universal goats taking into account this height.
The dimensions of the parts were calculated based on the fact that the source material is a figurative building board with a section of 50x150 and 25-150 mm. After chipping, blanks are obtained with a section of approximately 45x145 and 22x145 mm, respectively.
The T-shaped saddle of carpentry goats consists of two parts. Planed and sawn to size boards 45 mm thick, with a selected dovetail groove and a composite bar glued from two 22 mm thick slats. The comb is also of the dovetail type, with which it is inserted into the board with glue. Perpendicular to the edge of the composite bar, two guide rails, also 22 mm thick, are glued into it.
Roller support - even easier. Since there is no T-connection. The roller support was made from a nickel-plated metal pipe with a diameter of 50 mm, used to support tabletops made of MDF glass or chipboard. Didn't get too smart here. With a crown on a tree with a diameter of 50 mm, two corks were cut out from a board 50 thick. I inserted furniture bolts with a diameter of 6 mm into the plugs and fixed them with nuts. Plugs tightly inserted into the pipe from both sides. Further, having previously put washers on the protruding ends of the bolts, I inserted them into the hole of the brackets. And the brackets themselves were attached to the composite rail with self-tapping screws. Outside the brackets, I screwed self-locking nuts through the washers.
When carrying out any work related to the repair or maintenance of the house, it is required to rise to a certain height. If you can screw in a light bulb with a chair, and cover up a small crack with a stepladder, then extensive work requires more mobility.
To move at a height, construction goats are created, otherwise called scaffolds. There are ready-made structures in hardware stores, but prices go for thousands of rubles. They are easier to make yourself, and it costs several times cheaper.
The design of the construction goat
Before you start making building goats with your own hands, we select materials for manufacturing. There are three main materials from which goats are made:
wood and metal combination.
Since metal ones are difficult to create and quite costly in terms of materials, consider wooden goats.
After choosing a material, it is worth understanding the conditions for their use. If these are stationary or rarely moved scaffolds, then it is worth creating a disposable scaffold. If the goats are planned to be moved frequently, we choose folding goats.
Before starting carpentry work, we create a drawing and calculate the required height. The standard for comfortable work of an adult male is height 80-90 cm.
For finished product height 85 cm need legs length 95 cm.
The length must be chosen such that when the board for the construction site is laid on top, the beam protrudes at least by 5-7 cm on each side, but it is better to take with a margin.
The design is extremely simple, in the open state it resembles a letter "A", and has the ability to be used both at a small height, and with the help of two goats at full height.
Training
After creating the drawing, you need to decide how long the platform will be, and how many goats will have to be made for it. Goats are always created from two or more - if the overlay board is long and can break through in the middle.
Collapsible construction goats made of wood
The advantage over a conventional site, collapsible goats in reusability and the ability to quickly get out of storage and use. In the normal construction of scaffolds, only boards fastened with nails are used.
After the work is completed, it is difficult to leave them for storage unassembled. So that such scaffolds do not take up much space, they have to be dismantled, which is difficult if they are made with high quality.
Collapsible goats do not take up much space, it is possible to transport and use for various needs, except for their direct purpose. To create goats, you need two supports.
For the manufacture of one support you will need:
four boards for legs - 0.95 m;
How to quickly make construction goats with your own hands. The first question is, why do we need goats? They are most commonly used during renovations when scaffolding needs to be installed to work on the ceiling or top of the wall. But that's not all, if you put an old door on a pair of goats, you will get a desktop or a workbench. Such a structure can also be used as a temporary bed. I'm not saying that from a goat you can build an improvised swing or make a catapult to defend the house.
To make a pair of goats, you will need fourteen planed boards, nails and self-tapping screws.
Detail dimensions:
Six boards 800 mm long. , 100 mm wide. , 50 mm thick. (for a horizontal beam).
Eight boards 750 mm long. , section 100/50 mm. (for legs).
Twelve self-tapping screws 80 mm long. to assemble a double tee.
Thirty-two nails or self-tapping screws for attaching the legs.
For lightweight goats, boards of smaller thickness, for example 30-40 mm, are suitable.
We make a beam.
Let's start with the manufacture of a horizontal jumper. It is assembled from three parts 80 cm long, and in cross section an I-beam profile should be obtained. We fasten the upper and lower platforms to the edges of the middle board with 4/80 screws.
At least three screws must be tightened on each side.
Installing the legs.
We saw off the legs with a length of 750 mm. , this is the most popular height for indoor work, eight parts are needed for a pair of products. Now we nail the legs to the I-beam slightly stepping back from the ends inward.
You can nail it with nails, four pieces in one leg, or screw in screws.
Self-tapping screws hold better in a tree, nails have the ability to gradually climb out and have to be knocked out. But you need to take into account that the nails themselves are stronger than self-tapping screws, especially for breaking.
Ready goats.
The products that you see in the photo are assembled from boards 45-50 mm thick. , it is in this form that they can be used for some time. If you want to make a lighter option, from thin boards, then the legs will need to be further unfastened. Outside, at the ends, nail the slats to the edges of the legs, at a height of about 100 mm. from the floor. Bevels are sewn from the front of the product, that is, thin boards (20 mm.) Connecting two legs, but nailed not at a straight line, but at an acute angle.
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Universal folding goats significantly expand the capabilities of the home master. The transforming device is convenient to store, quickly installed, and can be made within a few hours. It costs at least half the price of factory modifications, and has a high resource.
Construction and use cases
Unlike classic tragus, universal trestle is foldable, which facilitates storage and transportation. The design of the carpentry-building fixture looks like:
- legs with spacers, pivotally connected to each other
- removable support bar
- belt tie at the bottom
The device allows you to harvest firewood, cut long lumber and support scaffolding shields (you will need 2 pairs of trestles) by default. A wooden worktop can be fixed to the support bar to accommodate power tools (for example, a trimming, drilling, grinding machine).
If you assemble a light frame from boards or plywood, you can build a large carpentry table-workbench for assembling furniture from two trestles.
Cutouts in the support bar allow you to work with tubular blanks, press the lamellas of the carpentry parts to be glued together. On one side of the trestles, you can attach a sheet of plywood, plasterboard, OSB for marking, straight or curly cut.
Do-it-yourself budget
For trestles with a height of 0.8 m, the following dimensions are valid:
- legs (4 pcs.) - 0.95 m
- upper crossbar - 0.9 m
- spacers (3 pcs.) - 0.85 m, 0.77 m and 0.7 m
Therefore, for the manufacture of two sets of fixtures, lumber and fasteners will be required in the amount of:
- board 95 x 45 mm - 5 pieces of 2 m
- board 90 x 20 mm - 1 piece 2 m
- board 90 x20 - 1 piece 3 m
- furniture bolt M10 x 100 with a nut - 4 pieces
- washers M10 - 12 pieces
- self-tapping screws 4 x 45 - 50 pieces (for wood)
- belt - 2 pieces
Attention: The main problem when buying boards is the choice of dry wood with a stable geometry. There is no rigid frame in the traguses, so “propellers”, boards with a difference in thickness, flash are not suitable.
An approximate estimate for the manufacture of folding universal goats is as follows:
- belt - 140 rubles. (2 pieces per pack)
- bolts included - 75 rubles.
- self-tapping screws - 30 rubles.
- board - 1000 rubles.
You can meet the amount of 1.25 thousand rubles, that is, at least four times cheaper than when buying ready-made traguses.
Manufacturing technology
The general principle of carpentry is the manufacture of parts and the final assembly of the resulting "constructor. All elements can be treated with antiseptics, flame retardants and paints and varnishes, reducing consumption, qualitatively processing mating, rubbing surfaces.
cut blanks
All details for one side of the legs are marked separately:
- from a 2 m board, two elements are obtained
- marking with a protractor starts from the very edge
- on the side 45 mm line at 65 degrees
- its continuation at the end (board "inch") line at 80 degrees
- the cut is carried out with a hacksaw with a fine tooth, since the cut occurs simultaneously in two planes
The second cut is parallel to the previous one and is made at a distance of 0.95 m from it. The second leg is easier to mark, saw off according to the template, which becomes the first part.
The cutting line of the upper support is straight (90 degrees), there are no problems here. All spacers are cut from both sides at an angle of 80 degrees with a narrow upwards. The length of the blanks is different - 0.85 m, 0.77 m and 0.7 m. The cut is made in one plane, it is not necessary to mow it along the end. The result is a set of parts for one tragus.
The most difficult cutting operation is the manufacture of cuts into which the removable upper support bar will fit. Seats are marked in the following way:
- the legs are located on a flat area in the form unfolded for operation (the lower supporting surfaces are on the same line, can be supported with a long board)
- the cut is marked with a square set 5 mm from the edge of the upper bevel of the leg, with a ruler located at a right angle to it at a distance of 8 cm
Attention: In this case, 8 cm is the depth at which the support bar sits in the groove, with the indicated dimensions it will be 15 cm above the legs, and not flush with them, which will avoid damage by accidental contact with the cutting tool.
The result should be the groove shown in the figure:
It is better to process parts before assembly; after drilling holes, it is enough to apply paintwork materials to newly created surfaces to ensure maximum fixture life. It is inconvenient to paint the legs after assembly, as access to certain sections of the boards that are in contact with each other is limited. In addition to paint and varnish, stains, wax, oil compositions can be used. Before that, all surfaces must be sanded.
Assembly of legs and fitting
The performance of the device depends on the quality of the marking of the hole for the bolt. Therefore, a preliminary fitting according to technology is necessary:
- the leg is placed on the table so that the cutout hangs over the table top (you can use a stool, chair)
- the support bar (upper) is installed vertically in the groove
- a second leg is added on top of the first (the bar should fit snugly into the cutouts in both parts)
- the structure is temporarily tightened with a clamp
Then the operations are performed:
- with a vertically placed square, the intersection of the legs is transferred to the side surface on both sides of the structure
- the resulting points are connected by a line that becomes the vertical axis of rotation
- a square marks the longitudinal axis of the leg
- at the intersection of these lines there will be a center for the hole of the M10 bolt, which is the hinge of the connection
Attention: The holes must be perpendicular to the plane of the boards, so a jig is needed. They can serve as a cut in a bar, pressed against the leg with a self-tapping screw or a clamp. If the hole is slanted, the legs will not be able to transform into the working position.
Leg assembly is carried out in stages:
- bolt goes through one part
- two washers are put on it, facilitating the rotation of wooden elements relative to each other
- the second leg is put on the threaded part
- the swivel joint is fixed with a nut
The result is a set of two legs, into the cuts of which the support bar is easily inserted from above.
Spacers fastening
The design does not have the necessary spatial rigidity, collapses from minor lateral loads. Therefore, it is necessary to strengthen the tragus with spacers:
- legs are folded lengthwise, stacked parallel to the floor
- 15 cm from the bottom are marked on the outer parts
- the longest spacer (95 cm) is applied
- holes for self-tapping screws are drilled to prevent splitting of wood when tightened
- fastening is made with one hardware on each side to provide some mobility
- the structure is turned over, marks are created at exactly the same height of 15 cm, only on the internal parts
- 77 cm spacer is attached similarly to the previous one with one self-tapping screw on each side
Then the last upper strut is attached:
- universal trestle unfolds into operational position
- a support bar is installed in the cuts
- distances of 20 cm are laid down from the grooves
- the spacer is installed above these marks
- baited with self-tapping screws similarly to the previous parts
If necessary, an adjustment is made, if all the parts are located without backlash relative to each other, the second self-tapping screws are screwed on all spacers.
Lower tension strap
The support bar does not allow the legs to fold inward. However, the home master can accidentally shift them outward, the design will “disperse”, lose rigidity. For this, a belt tie is used, fixing the opposite lower spacers. It is installed according to the technology:
- traguses unfold
- marked the middle of the lower strut
- a through hole is drilled with a 10 mm drill (under the M10 bolt)
- 40 cm from the carabiner of the belt, a hole is punched into which the bolt is inserted
After that, it is enough to fix the bolt with the belt in one spacer with a nut, tighten the belt around the opposite spacer, cut off the excess length. The support bar is attached to the legs with the same belt during transportation or storage when folded.
Thus, universal folding traguses are made on their own with a minimum set of tools within a couple of hours. All parts are ready-made templates, which facilitates the further assembly of the required number of these transformable devices.
