Precursors are very important when growing garlic. This year I planted garlic in the beds where tomatoes grew this summer. Moreover, I, as always, placed the garlic beds between the future carrot beds. It is that during the growing season of garlic, a harmful fly infects garlic (it Can't stand the carrot smell!), stayed away from these places. I also took into account that this place would be next year, after harvesting the garlic, would be just right for planting young strawberry tendrils.
Before digging up the selected places for garlic, I added two buckets to each bed (5 sq.m.) sand, so I haven’t brought it there for a long time, and the soil there turned out to be quite heavy. But I didn’t add humus, since the amount added for the previous crop (tomatoes) was enough for garlic.
For seeds I select only the most best heads of garlic. These are the largest and healthiest heads from plants that have preserved everything as much as possible. varietal characteristics. I never leave all atypical (in terms of ripening time, type of heads, arrows, etc.) garlic plants for seeds. I divide the garlic heads into cloves in advance and do not use damaged cloves for planting. To improve the health of my entire garlic mini-plantation, I periodically (every few years) use growing garlic from bulbs.
Depending on local growing conditions in different regions, garlic is planted before winter in different time. In our area (Altai), the most acceptable time for planting winter garlic falls on first days of October. This season I planted winter garlic on October 2.
I plant garlic in rows in the garden beds. Row spacing 15-20 cm, and between the plants in a row 10-15 cm. You can plant garlic thicker, but I prefer to give it more space so that it grows better and sets larger heads. Using a special planting stick, I make planting nests-holes in the garden bed deep 5 cm(planting depth may be different for different regions). In each prepared hole I lower a clove of garlic with the bottom (where the roots are) down, you should pay attention here - this is a must! After planting, I carefully level all the holes and immediately fill the garlic beds with pre-prepared mulch. I use for this pine needles.
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Garlic is not just a good seasoning for any dish and an essential touch in delicious pickles. This is also proven folk remedy, which strengthens the immune system and helps cope with all sorts of unpleasant diseases, from a runny nose to bronchitis. Therefore, growing garlic, especially in cold Siberian regions, is an extremely popular activity among gardeners. But in order for the idea to take place and the harvest to turn out rich, you need to figure out how and when to plant garlic correctly for the winter. It is this question that we will consider in the article, and we will also help you understand the technology for planting this crop in Siberia.
Siberian temperatures are quite harsh, so it is quite important to understand the varieties winter garlic before starting to plant.
It is worth remembering how winter varieties differ from spring varieties and not to confuse them: a summer crop is unlikely to withstand frost, while a winter crop can easily wait out the cold in winter under a snow cap. Next, we will consider the most popular varieties of winter garlic.
Gribovsky Yubileiny - shooter mid-season variety culture. The head of garlic usually weighs up to 45 grams and contains up to 10 cloves, covered with creamy scales with purple veins. The pungency of this variety is not very pronounced. While Gribovsky 60 is also a bolting variety, but early ripening, very sharp. Its bulb is larger, often reaching 60 grams and consists of large cloves from 5 to 12 per bulb.
Elenovsky is also a bolting, very fertile variety, characterized by high yield and increased frost resistance, as well as resistance to bacterial diseases. The white bulbs (about 50 g) contain only 4-7 cloves. The Spas variety is characterized by the same resistance and fertility. Its bulbs are twice the size of Elenovsky (up to 100 g), but there are also few cloves in it - from 7 to 10 pieces per bulb. There is another variety - Sofievsky. It, like Spas, is resistant to frost and nematode. Its head weighs 120 grams on average and produces about 8 teeth.
Alcor is a mid-season variety that produces small bulbs covered with purple scales. Garlic heads weigh up to 40 grams, each of them has up to 6 cloves. One of the most popular varieties is Lyubasha. He gives large heads up to 130 g weighing with large teeth from 4 to 7 in one bulb.
Features of planting winter garlic
Before planting garlic for the winter in Siberia, you need to decide what kind of result you want to achieve: harvest a large harvest or grow good variety. If the former, then your seed will be the tines. If the second - then bulbs.
It is important to understand how one differs from the other. Cloves are the “fruits” of garlic, closely adjacent to the stem in the bulb in winter varieties. Bulbs are, relatively speaking, “seeds” that ripen in the seed box on the shoot. In the first year after sowing, the bulbs produce bulbs with one clove (the so-called set), which only the next year will grow into a full-fledged bulb. This plant is grown in two seasons, but guarantees a high-quality and rich harvest.
When the decision has been made, it is worthwhile to start selecting the seed and preparing it. Garlic cloves for planting are selected large and intact. This will be the key to good things correct height. Such teeth must be hardened - kept in a solution of potassium permanganate, ash solution or copper sulfate solution.
The bulbs need to be dried and treated with a strong solution of potassium permanganate or an ash solution by spraying immediately before planting.
Deadlines
Winter garlic in Siberia should be planted when you have completely cleared the selected area of land from the previous crop and prepared the land. All this should happen in late September or early October, about 50 days before frost. During this time, the clove placed in the ground will have time to develop a good root system and begin its proper development. This way the plant will adapt as much as possible and will be ready to wait out the winter.
Selecting a location
Landing location is also an important issue. It is important to consider many points when choosing the right site for sowing garlic. It is worth remembering that the crop loves loamy soil with low acidity. The soil should not accumulate a lot of moisture - this harms the development of the planted cloves, moreover, it can lead to an undesirable result: the garlic can simply rot.
Determine the location in advance, even before harvesting the predecessors. Remember that the type of plants that grew on the site before will determine how well the new soil will take root in the crop. By the way, it is not recommended to plant a plant in the same area two times in a row, since the previous sowing will take too much nutrients and the new harvest will be rather meager.
When you have decided on the land plot and removed all organic residues from the soil, you need to move on to the stage of fertilizing the soil.
Proper saturation of the soil will help garlic survive the winter, even in Siberia.
It is best to fertilize the soil with mullein or horse manure and feed it with phosphates and potassium. Fertilizer should be applied to the ground 20 cm - the maximum depth of the garlic root system. It is also recommended to treat the soil with a solution of copper sulfate.
After the soil has been processed, you should keep it for some time under polyethylene or roofing felt. The soil needs to warm up and accumulate moisture. However, the shelter must be removed for the winter so that the garlic in the ground does not rot.
Landing technology
Before planting, after the cover has been removed from the ground, the soil should be slightly moist. Now that everything is ready, you can proceed directly to planting. There are several options for planting garlic, and the choice of the right one depends on the size land plot allocated for landing:
- The soil can be fed with a yeast solution, after which the furrows can be divided, leaving 25 centimeters between them. Cloves are planted in these furrows at intervals of 10 centimeters and then covered with soil.
- If you want to grow as much as possible in a small area more garlic, you can plant the crop in two tiers. The technology is similar: you need to dig furrows up to 20 cm deep and lay the first tier of cloves. Then cover with 5-6 centimeters of soil, plant the second tier and dig in again.
- The third way is for those who do not want to dig and mark furrows again, take care of their depth. In this case, the beds are simply distributed at a distance of 25 cm from each other, the garlic cloves are sown and covered with soil.
It should be remembered that in all cases, after planting, it is recommended to mulch the crop with leaves or grass.
Predecessors of garlic
Returning to the question of predecessors, it is worth clarifying a few important details. It is best to know after which crops sowing garlic will give a rich harvest, and after which - a meager one. Of course, the first rule, which is not difficult to follow (if we are talking about winter varieties), is not to plant the crop twice in a row.
However, it is unlikely that gardeners will let the plot sit idle in the summer. Because you will definitely sow something. And it’s important to think about what exactly. After potatoes, Jerusalem artichoke, rare and carrots, garlic cloves will not develop very well - there will be too few useful elements in the ground. But after melons, cabbage and legumes, the land, on the contrary, will be saturated with useful nutrients for the growth of garlic.
Garlic is a crop that grows in different climatic and soil conditions. The ideal soils for growing garlic are alluvial and humus. He is one of the oldest cultivated plants. , it was cultivated by the ancient Greeks, Jews, and Romans 4500 years BC. Its homeland is one of the steppes of Central Asia; garlic came to Russia only in the Middle Ages, but in the rest of the world it has been known for thousands of years. Garlic's characteristic aroma and taste have made it a highly valuable seasoning. But many avoid eating garlic because of the smell that lingers in the mouth. But nevertheless, this is a small minus that fades in the face beneficial properties this plant and its beneficial effects on our body.
Garlic is not only an excellent plant crop used as a seasoning, but is also widely known and famous for its medicinal properties. Because of their healing properties it is widely used in the pharmaceutical industry, and in its natural form it is worth including it in your diet, as it prevents sclerosis, fights high blood pressure, cleanses the blood and supports natural immunity body. Eating garlic helps get rid of so-called “bad” cholesterol. It can be called the oldest antibiotic. Apparently it was eaten by construction workers Egyptian pyramids to protect yourself from diseases.
Hippocrates, the father of Jewish medicine, recommended garlic to stimulate function digestive system and from lung diseases. The ancient Chinese also knew this plant. Today China is the largest producer of garlic in the world. By and large it is also grown in Egypt, India, South Korea and Turkey.
As a rule, high yields are obtained on other soils, but they must be rich in nutrients. On sandy and dry soils, the yield will be smaller. Garlic, like other bulbous plants, reacts negatively to weed contamination of the plantation. This is especially important during garlic germination and any inconsistency in care leads to a significant reduction in yield.
What are the advantages of growing garlic in winter?
Garlic, which is planted in the autumn, undergoes natural hardening in the winter. Planting winter garlic - this method very common among gardeners. It allows you to get a harvest several weeks earlier than those who planted garlic in the spring. By mid-summer we will be able to provide our family with valuable nutrients. Moreover, during autumn planting there is no need to build a greenhouse.
Another advantage of this planting is that we do not need to create conditions for storing garlic in the winter.
Climate
Garlic is a strong and hard crop that easily tolerates low temperatures and can overwinter in the soil provided that it is planted in the fall in a timely manner (before the first frost). It is resistant to spring frosts. After winter it enters the germination phase at a temperature of 3 to 5 degrees Celsius.
Landing
The timing of planting winter garlic may vary depending on the region. As a rule, the planting period begins in mid-October and continues until the end of November. For planting garlic, beds from which the harvest has already been harvested are suitable. It should not be planted in a place where onions or garlic previously grew. The beds for winter garlic are prepared approximately a month before planting.
However, you need to be very careful not to plant garlic too early because it may sprout and freeze in the winter. But garlic should have time to take root before winter, but not so much that it begins to grow upward.
To obtain greater yields of winter garlic, it should be stored in a dry and cool place. The best material for planting will be medium or large bulbs. With small seeds the harvest will be small. Garlic cloves are planted in the ground in an upright position, with the sharp end up. Garlic is planted in rows, the distance between them should be about 20-25 cm, and the distance from clove to clove in one row is about 7 cm. Before planting garlic, treat the soil with special solutions, which can be purchased in specialized stores. The solutions will protect the garlic cloves from nematodes and fungi, early stages development.
Among the winter varieties of garlic we can distinguish: Arcus, Mega, Ceves, Harnas, Huzar, Ornak. Before the onset of frost, the beds with garlic are lined with straw and covered with spruce branches.
Winter garlic is planted in the soil to a depth of 5-6 cm, which is slightly deeper than spring garlic. For spring garlic optimal time planting is the end of March or the beginning of April, as weather permits. When the soil begins to thaw in the spring and dries out a little, you need to cultivate the soil and plant garlic to a depth of about 3 cm.
Humus and compost must be added to such beds, after which the soil should be dug up. Garlic is laid out on the garden bed in a checkerboard pattern, after which it is covered with compost on top. This is the most common way to plant winter garlic. There is another way to plant garlic in the fall. Garlic must be planted in a prepared bed with the first frost. In this case, the garlic has time to form a fairly powerful root system, which will contribute to a rich harvest. When preparing the bed for planting garlic, the soil must be well fertilized with manure.
Sandy loam soils are often used. They are fertilized with humus. It is not recommended to apply fresh manure to the soil immediately before planting. It is not recommended to press garlic cloves into the ground when planting. Such planting can have a detrimental effect on the development of the root system. Also, the soil should not be too dense, otherwise it will push the garlic to the surface, where it will simply freeze. In addition, the soil should not be too loose. When planting in loose soil, we may end up with a harvest with garlic heads that are too small. If you plant garlic cloves not deep enough, it may freeze, and planting it too deep will have a detrimental effect on the development of the root system. It is imperative to mulch with peat and compost, they are applied in layers. With the onset of spring, the layer of compost and peat must be removed from the garden bed so that the process of decay does not begin. When planting garlic for the winter, main problem, is to guess the landing date.
Garlic must be planted when the ground temperature reaches plus 2-3 degrees Celsius. If you plant garlic too early, then in the fall it will begin to sprout from the ground, and when frost sets in, the seedlings will die. It is for this reason that garlic is planted in slightly frozen ground in the fall. With this planting, garlic tolerates even harsh winters well and pleases the gardener with a rich harvest in the summer.
Planting winter garlic in Siberia is somewhat different from planting in the middle zone. Here winter garlic is planted a little earlier. For example, in Western Siberia, planting winter garlic begins in mid-September and ends around October 5th. Having planted garlic in the above period of time, cloves or sets have time to take root in the ground and form a root system, the length of which can reach 7-10 centimeters, but leaves do not have time to form. This garlic can withstand even severe frosts. When planting non-shooting varieties for the winter, they must be planted to a depth of about 6 centimeters. Shooting varieties are planted to a depth of 8 centimeters. The distance between the rows when sowing should be from 25 to 30 centimeters, and in the row, between the plants themselves, from 8 to 10 centimeters. Regardless of weather conditions, immediately after planting garlic, the bed should be well watered. Watering will help increase the winter hardiness of garlic and the formation of a good root system.
Top dressing
With the onset of spring, as soon as the snow melts, it is necessary to feed the garlic. Fertilizing is carried out with ammonium nitrate. About 20 grams are used per 1 square meter. During the summer, the field must be harrowed or loosened to a shallow depth 3 to 4 times. At the same time, the plants themselves are not hilled, so as not to damage them. When leaves begin to sprout on the garlic, it is necessary to water it generously. Water 3-4 times. To increase the mass of the bulb in shooting varieties, the shoot that appears at the end of the first summer month must be removed. You can simply pull out the arrow, but it is best to remove the entire inflorescence. Thus, the weight of the bulb will increase by 30-40 percent. We begin harvesting non-shooting winter varieties of garlic when 75 percent of the plant leaves turn yellow and fall off.
As for the shooting varieties, the time for harvesting them will come when the inflorescences crack and the aerial bulbs begin to fall off. Under no circumstances should you be late in harvesting. If you are late in harvesting, the quality of the harvest will decrease. We select the bulbs from the soil very carefully, so as not to injure them, and carefully remove the adhering soil from them.
Harvesting garlic
Garlic harvesting should begin when more than half of the garlic on the plantation has lost its stems. If garlic is planted in the fall, it is harvested in early July. Another sign of maturity is dry leaves. Garlic collected too late will not store well, and the head will disintegrate into individual cloves that are poorly covered with husk. This type of garlic is more susceptible to disease. To harvest the personal plots The best tool is “American forks”. After harvesting the garlic and clearing the heads from the soil, leave them to dry in the same area. This process usually takes several days.
Storage
Once the stems and leaves are completely dry, you can move the garlic into a room or basement for storage, after shortening the stem. The room should be dry and well ventilated. Recommended storage temperature 0 degrees Celsius, humidity 65-70%.
The magic of garlic
The magical component of garlic is allicin, as a result of which garlic acts as an antibiotic and effectively inhibits the growth of many bacteria. The plant contains vitamins such as: A, B1, B3. Different kinds Garlic decoctions and infusions help in the environmental control of vegetable garden pests.
There are two types of garlic: those that produce flowering shoots and those that do not produce flowering shoots.
The inflorescences of the first type produce excellent planting material in the form of small oblong bulbs.
If you have been living in Siberia for more than one year and know when the soil is likely to freeze, then it will not be difficult for you to step back from this date for 2-3 weeks and plant garlic. If you are interested in the influence of the night Sun, then the question is when to plant winter garlic in Siberia by lunar calendar needs to be looked at more carefully.
Why plant garlic before winter
Many vegetable growers are confident that garlic planted before winter is more productive, and they are right. Having dug up a head in the middle of summer, you can quite enjoy its large, fragrant and elastic teeth.
Many argue that it is less durable, but one can argue with this. There are varieties of winter garlic that can easily be stored for up to 9 months, for example, “Otradninsky Plus” and “Belozerovsky”, but some hard (spring) varieties cannot last up to 7 months, for example, the “Abrek” variety.
Sometimes you can hear that a disadvantage of winter garlic is bolting. But there are some sides to this too:
- Arrows are an excellent product that can be pickled, fried, stewed, frozen with butter, etc.;
- There are varieties of winter garlic, for example “Bogolepovsky”, which do not shoot.
How to choose a variety for Siberia?
There are probably few crops to which zoning does not apply. All varieties of garlic are suitable for all climatic zones of the country.
However, each vegetable grower puts his own concepts into the best varieties garlic for Siberia. Of course, when we plant garlic, we want a high yield and resistance to disease, but a spicy or semi-sharp variety is also important.
It is not possible to satisfy the tastes of everyone at the same time, but everyone is free to choose a variety to suit their taste.
If you like garlic with white outer scales, give preference to the Bogatyr and Antonik varieties. The “Bogolepovsky” variety will please you with bulbs up to 60 g, and “In Memory of Novichkov” up to 75 g. The high-yielding variety “Osenniy” will produce a yield of 118 c/ha. The Parus variety will show increased resistance to diseases.
In order for the selected and planted garlic variety to truly show its full genetic potential, it is necessary to create all the conditions for planting and carry it out on time.
Choosing a predecessor
Experienced vegetable growers plan their plantings not in spring and autumn, but 2-3 years before planting. It's best to do this on paper. Prepare a planting plan for the next few years and stick to it. In this case, the question will not arise about what to plant winter garlic after, when it already needs to be embedded in the ground, and everything will go smoothly and systematically.
A good harvest of garlic can be harvested by planting it after early crops. As soon as you remove the early cabbage, cucumbers or spicy herbs, you can start working on the garlic bed.
Cabbage removes a lot of nutrients from the soil, so they definitely need to be added. Cucumbers have a more superficial root system, so deep soils are not involved. If the cucumber plantation was fertilized regularly, then the garlic will really like this area.
Beds where onions and garlic were grown are not allowed. Common diseases will not allow you to produce a good harvest.
How to choose a place?
The bed for winter garlic should be in a fully lit area. Temporary shading by buildings or trees is also not acceptable.
Garlic will not be comfortable in a damp area with heavy, clayey soils.
You cannot plant garlic in soils with increased acidity without preliminary liming.
If The groundwater have a close occurrence, it is necessary to make a drainage system or abandon the selected area.
When to plant?
Since the transition from summer to winter in Siberia occurs very quickly, you need to have time to “catch” the optimal landing moment.
The main task is to allow the garlic to wake up and take root. However, you can’t let it start to grow.
For all these physiological processes You can take 2-3 weeks. If you plant garlic earlier and it shows its greenness, and the frosts “scare it away” a little, then nothing bad will happen. However, if you are late with planting, the unrooted teeth will simply freeze.
Siberia is very large and the difference in the onset of frost is also noticeable, so each region determines the timing of planting winter garlic independently, so that it has time to grow a root system and “grab” the soil
What does the night star say?
Using the lunar calendar, gardeners know that everything that bears fruit and accumulates crops underground is best planted during the waning moon.
But what if the moon is waxing and deadlines are running out? Plant garlic according to the weather. If we wait, we will be left without garlic altogether. However, if possible, you can play it safe and attract the Moon to your harvest.
Considering the question “When to plant garlic according to the lunar calendar of the gardener in 2017 so that it is optimal?” you need to choose September.
Of course, timing is very important, but a properly prepared bed will help you get a good harvest.
How to prepare a garden bed?
In order for the garden bed to be fertile, the following activities must be carried out:
- thoroughly clean the area from the remains of previous crops;
- apply organic fertilizers. Fresh compost, cow or horse manure, or pork manure are suitable for this purpose. If you use chicken manure, it is better mixed with sawdust. Fresh manure or slurry is a completely unsuitable fertilizer; it is better to store it and use it next year. The amount of organic matter for garlic is determined within a bucket per square meter;
- Scatter stove ash on top of the organic matter. Garlic does not tolerate acidity, and the ash will make the pH optimal for the crop;
- We are digging. The shovel must be driven at least on a bayonet so that the root system develops evenly and quickly;
- we harrow the planting area.
We leave the bed in this state until the moment of planting. Planting winter garlic in Siberia is not much different from other regions. On the day of planting, we cut furrows. This can be done using a sapa or a special marker.
The distance between the rows is maintained within 12-13 cm. If the soils are very heavy, then it is better to sprinkle the bottom of the furrow with a small amount of fresh compost and sand in a 1:1 ratio.
Preparing garlic for planting
It is necessary to separate the head into cloves 1-2 days before planting. We do not select all the cloves from the head, but only large, even ones that correspond to the characteristics of the variety. If the head is damaged by mold or mechanical damage, it is better to discard it.
If the variety is with simple structure heads (4-7 teeth), then they are all suitable for planting. If the variety has a complex structure (8 or more), then we select only the large, outer cloves for planting.
In the case when last year's plantings did not please you and the tips green leaves If the planting teeth tended to turn yellow, it would be better to treat them with a solution of copper sulfate. This can be done by spraying. To do this, prepare a solution at the rate of 1 tbsp. spoon onto a bucket of water, and garlic is spread on the surface. The teeth are sprayed and then dried.
Other fungicides can be used for treatment. This measure kills fungal spores on planting material, which of course does not guarantee a completely sterile material, since spores are also present in the soil, on working tools, etc., but the incidence can be reduced.
