If gooseberries have been growing at your dacha for a long time, you got the bush from your grandmother, and she once took cuttings from her great-grandmother, most likely you are familiar with the problem of powdery mildew firsthand. This whitish coating on the leaves and stems, brown spots on the berries, which can be cleaned off if you try, but it’s still not very pleasant. Old varieties are good because they are tasty and definitely have not undergone any modifications, but the problem is that they are not at all resistant to various diseases.
I don’t want to get rid of a tasty variety, but I don’t want to defeat powdery mildew. At the same time, it would be nice to do without toxic pesticides. There are effective folk remedies for the prevention and control of powdery mildew. And they have been tested in practice.
The gooseberry disease, which everyone calls powdery mildew, is called spheroteca. It affects all parts of the bush: leaves, shoots, ovaries, berries. At first, the plant is covered with a white coating, and over time it turns into a brown coating, reminiscent of felt. Affected shoots become bent, leaves curl, and fruits do not fill well.
The disease is caused by a genus of fungi with the same name, which release spores twice: in spring and summer. Therefore, in a good way, you need to carry out three treatments of gooseberries against powdery mildew: before flowering, immediately after flowering and before leaf fall. In this case, it is better not to spray the bushes, but to wet them, trying not to miss a single branch. In addition, it is important to remember that the fungal spores overwinter in the litter, that is, it is necessary to spill the same product on the soil around the bush. It is recommended to carry out the treatment in the evening.
Folk remedies for powdery mildew on gooseberries
Ammonium nitrate 50 grams of ammonium nitrate are dissolved in 10 liters of water. Gooseberries are treated after flowering.
Aspirin + Soda 1 tbsp. soda, 1 aspirin tablet, 1 tsp. dishwashing detergent or liquid soap, 1 tbsp. vegetable oil is dissolved in 4.5 liters of water. The bushes are treated with this composition once every two weeks during the season.
Water Water should be brought to a boil. In early spring, before the snow melts, gooseberry bushes are doused with boiling water directly from a watering can.
Gaupsin or trichodermin (biological products) 150 ml. The drug is dissolved in 10 liters of water. Spray gooseberries during the growing season at intervals of 2 weeks.
Ash Option 1. One kilogram of ash is poured into 10 liters of water and left for 7 days, stirring occasionally. Then carefully pour the infusion, leaving sediment at the bottom. Option 2,300 grams of ash are mixed with 10 liters of water, brought to a boil and boiled for 30 minutes. Then cool until sediment appears and carefully pour into a clean container. Option 3.3 kg. ash is poured with 10 liters of boiling water and left for 24 hours. Then filter. Spraying is carried out at the end of May - beginning of June three times with an interval of one day. The ash sludge is diluted with water and the soil under the bushes is watered with this mixture.
Soda ash 50 grams of soda ash are dissolved in a small amount of hot water, then the water is brought to 10 liters and 10 grams of liquid soap are added. Gooseberries are processed twice: before flowering and after flowering.
Kefir or sour milk 1 liter of kefir or sour milk is mixed with 9 liters of water. Treatment is carried out three times every three days.
Mullein Mullein is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:3 and infused for three days. Then dilute again with water 1:3 and filter. Gooseberries are treated before flowering, after flowering and before leaf fall.
Onion peels 200 grams of onion peels are poured with 10 liters of boiling water and left for 2 days. Gooseberries are treated before flowering, after flowering and before leaf fall.
Whey 1 liter of whey is mixed with 9 liters of water. Treatment is carried out three times every three days.
Tansy 30 grams of dry tansy is poured with 10 liters of water and left for 24 hours. Then cook for 1.5-2 hours and filter. Tansy decoction is used to treat the ground around the bushes in spring and autumn.
Rotten hay or forest litter A bucket is filled one third with hay, topped up with water and left for three days. Then again dilute with water 1:3 and filter. Gooseberries are treated before flowering, after flowering and before leaf fall.
Soda 2 tbsp. soda and 50 grams of grated laundry soap are dissolved in 10 liters of water. The bushes are treated twice: before flowering and after flowering.
Fertilizers For 10 liters of water you need 20 grams of superphosphate, 50 grams of potassium chloride, 30 grams of urea, 5 grams of potassium permanganate. Gooseberries are sprayed once after flowering.
Fitosporin Take 100-150 ml. drug per 10 liters of water. The bush and the soil under it are treated in the spring before flowering and in the fall after fruiting.
Horsetail 1 kg. fresh horsetail is poured into 10 liters of water and boiled for 2 hours. The broth is cooled, filtered and diluted with water 1:5. Spray gooseberries during the summer season at intervals of a week.
In conclusion, I would like to say that powdery mildew, like many other fungal diseases, loves moisture, thickened plantings and soils poor in organic matter. Therefore, firstly, you need to try to regularly cut out old, poorly fruiting branches so that air can freely penetrate inside the bush, and secondly, to heal and enrich the soil with organic matter. Instead of digging under the bushes, weeding out all the weeds and removing the litter (what if there is a fungus lurking there?), it is better, on the contrary, to put tops under the gooseberries (the tops of nightshades are especially good: potatoes and tomatoes) and generously spill them on top with a solution of EM preparations . Beneficial microorganisms will quickly get down to business and “chew” organic residues along with pathogenic fungi. We wish you success and great harvests!
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6.2 Mint pests and measures to combat them
Green shieldweed– Cassida viridis.
The green scutellum is distributed everywhere, but is most harmful in the Central Black Earth, North Caucasus, and Volga regions. It mainly damages peppermint, as well as sage, lemon balm and wild plants.
The beetle is 5...7 mm long, matte green, with wide elytra and pronotum covering the entire body like a shield. The larva is up to 8 mm long, dark green, with needle-shaped outgrowths on the sides (Fig. 27).
Green beetles overwinter on mint plantations under leaves, lumps of soil and in other shelters. During the period of leaf growth, beetles emerge from their wintering places and colonize the plants. They need additional nutrition, and at this time they skeletonize their leaves. After mating, females lay eggs on the underside of leaves.
The hatched larvae skeletonize the leaves on one side. Older larvae gnaw through them and often completely destroy the leaves, leaving only the petioles. The larvae feed for about two weeks and then pupate. The pupa develops in 7...12 days. The new generation of beetles begin feeding and after mating lay eggs. Depending on environmental conditions, two or three generations develop.
The first generation is the most harmful.
Protective measures. When the number of beetles and larvae is high, plantations are treated with decis, EC (0.2 l/ha). The last treatment is carried out 25 days before harvesting.
Mint leaf beetle– Chrysomela mentastr. Systematic position: order of beetles, or Coleoptera, family of leaf beetles (Chrysomelidae).
Distributed in the Central Black Earth, Volga, North Caucasus, and in the south of the Central and West Siberian regions.
Beetle 7…11 mm long, metallic green, oblong-oval body; elytra with rows of small punctures. The larva is 12…14 mm long, black-brown, with three pairs of legs (Fig. 20).
The last instar larvae overwinter in the soil. In the spring they pupate, and the hatched beetles immediately begin additional feeding, eating leaves from the edges.
Females lay eggs in small groups of seven-nine pieces on the underside of the leaves. One female can lay up to 200 eggs. Embryonic development lasts 6...13 days.
First, the larvae skeletonize the leaves, and then gnaw holes in them and eat away from the edges. The larva is very sensitive and at the slightest mechanical impact on it, it curls up and falls to the soil surface. When the larvae have finished feeding, they go into the soil and remain there to overwinter. Some of the larvae pupate, and beetles hatch from them. The mint leaf beetle most often inhabits plantations located in low, humid places, protected from the wind and well warmed by the sun. In most of its range it has one generation.
Protective measures. When the mint leaf beetle population is high, plantations are treated with actellik, EC (0.6 l/ha). Treatments are stopped 40 days before harvesting.
Fleamint–LongitarsuslicopiFoudr. Systematic position: order of beetles, or Coleoptera, family of leaf beetles (Chrysomelidae).
Beetle 1.3...1.8 mm long, light brown; elytra with stitches arranged in distinct rows.
Mint flea beetles overwinter at the soil surface in plant debris, on forest edges, and in forest belts. In the spring, when warm weather sets in, the beetles migrate to plantations and feed on the growing young leaves of food plants. They are especially dangerous for young plants in hot, dry weather.
Fleas gnaw out the pulp in young leaves from the upper side in the form of rounded or irregularly shaped depressions with an intact lower epidermis; later, as the leaf grows, through holes with torn edges form in these places. With severe damage, plants lag behind in growth and development. Having finished additional feeding, females lay eggs in the soil.
The larvae, hatched after 10...12 days, feed on small roots of mint and other plants without causing any noticeable harm to them. Pupation occurs in the soil. The hatched young beetles feed on leaves for a short time, then go to their wintering areas. Gives one generation per year.
Measures to protect against the mint flea beetle. If the mint flea beetle population is high, the plantations are treated during the period of leaf regrowth with actellicom, EC (0.6 l/ha).
Tlyamyatnaya– Aphis affinis Guerc. Systematic position: order Homoptera, family of aphids (Aphididae).
Wingless parthenogenetic female mint aphid up to 2 mm long, dark green, sap tubes 1.7...2.2 times longer than the tail.
As a result of aphid feeding, the leaves are deformed, curled, young shoots are inhibited, and plants are stunted. This leads to the loss of half the mass of leaves and inflorescences - the main raw materials for the production of essential oil. As mid-summer and autumn approach, aphid numbers decrease. In autumn, females and males appear in aphid colonies. After mating, the female lays several eggs. Adults and larvae of mint aphids die with the onset of cold weather. It produces many generations during the growing season.
Protective measures. Spatial separation of new peppermint plantations from old ones. Carrying out peeling and deep autumn plowing, which contributes to a sharp reduction in the wintering stock of aphids. Spraying plantations in the spring when colonies of mint aphids appear on the leaves with Actellik, EC (0.6 l/ha). Treatments are stopped 40 days before harvesting.
6.3 Mint diseases and measures to combat them
Mint curliness. Curly mint is a widespread and very harmful disease in the main areas where this crop is cultivated. Affected plants have low, thin, twisted stems and stunted growth. In some cases, mosaic patterns appear on the leaves, and in others - severe crushing and curling of the leaves due to uneven growth of veins and tissues. Sometimes a strong brightening of the veins appears. With tissue aging, mosaic gradually disappears.
Pathogen. In plants with signs of curling, using an electron microscope, filamentous virions were identified, which, based on morphological characteristics, can be classified into the group Potyvirus, and varieties with mosaic have rod-shaped virions characteristic of the group Tobamovirus.
Control measures. Creation of new plantings with healthy planting material.
Mint rust. Rust is the most common and harmful disease of mint, causing a severe reduction in the quantity and quality of the harvest.
In spring, small, yellow-brown warts develop on growing stems and, less often, on petioles and veins of leaves, which are the spermogonial stage of the disease. Soon after this, cup-shaped aecidia of a red-orange color form on the warts, in elongated groups.
With the strong development of these stages, curvature and swelling of the affected tissues are observed, and most of the affected shoots die. Later, small yellow or brown spots appear on the upper side of the leaves, and small piles of brown summer uredosoruses appear on the underside.
At the end of the growing season, dark-colored winter teleithosoruses form scatteredly or in small groups in the same places. With severe damage, yellowing and falling leaves are observed (Fig. 6).
Pathogen. Mushroom Pucciniamenthae Pers. forms single-celled, light brown, setae-covered uredospores. Teleitospores are ellipsoidal, two-celled, dark brown, thin-walled. At the top they have a wide, colorless wart. The pathogen has 16 races, depending on their reaction to individual varieties of the species Menthapiperita.
Conditions for the development of the disease. The germination of telyto-iuredospores occurs in the presence of droplet-liquid moisture, so the massive development of the disease occurs after prolonged rainfall and when water is retained on the leaves. The optimal temperature for uredospore germination is about 18º C. Teleitospores are formed after a prolonged drop in temperature below 10 ° C.
Control measures. Creating new mint plantings in a well-ventilated area using healthy planting material. When rust appears in the early phases of plant development, fungicide treatments are carried out: sumi 8 12.5 SP 0.05%, impact 12.5 SC 0.1%, folicurplus375 EC 500 ml/gai etc. If the disease develops strongly in later phases, it is recommended premature cutting of crops.
The mint varieties Tundzha, Zephyr, Sofia, Mechta and others are resistant to rust.
Septoria of mint. First, on the lowest, and later on the leaves of the middle and upper tiers of plants, small, almost round, ocher-brown spots are formed, the center of which gradually becomes lighter. Pinpoint black pycnidia form in the center of the spots. Affected leaves turn yellow and fall off.
Pathogen. The fungus Septoria menthe forms flattened pycnidia with holes. The spores are filamentous, often curved, unicellular, hyaline.
Development cycle. The pathogen persists in affected plant debris. Mass infection of plants is carried out with the help of conidia spread by raindrops.
Conditions for the development of the disease. Warm and prolonged wet weather contributes to the strong development of the disease.
Control measures. Collection and destruction of fallen leaves followed by proper soil cultivation.
Verticillium wilt of mint. Affected plants are severely depressed and unevenly developed. The leaf blades are asymmetrical, corrugated, with yellowish growing spots on the tips. With severe damage, the leaves turn yellow sequentially from the bottom to the top of the plant, turn brown and dry out, while only the youngest leaves on the tops of the shoots remain.
Lignified tissues of the stem and roots of diseased plants turn brown, and the core and vascular bundles become discolored. Ulcers, rot, and sometimes a fungal coating appear on the stems (ill. 8).
Pathogen. The fungus Verticillium alboatrum develops characteristic whorled-branched conidiophores with single-celled, very small, colorless conidia.
Development cycle. The fungus is a typical soil-dwelling species that develops saprotrophically. It infects plants through root hairs or penetrates plants in places where lateral roots branch.
Conditions for the development of the disease. Strong development of the disease is observed when plants are grown on sandy soils with an alkaline or neutral reaction of the soil solution. Mechanical damage caused by insects or during soil cultivation contributes to the strong development of the disease.
Control measures. When creating new plantings, it is necessary to use healthy planting material. Compliance with crop rotation with the inclusion of cereal species that are not affected by the pathogen.
Rhizoctoniosis, or black spot of mint. The aboveground part of the plants becomes necrotic and dies. The roots and root collar are rusty-brown and gradually rot. In wet weather, the basal part of the plants is covered with a light coating of fungus (Fig. 5).
Pathogen. Mushroom Rhizoctoniasolani Kuhn. forms yellow-brown or brown mycelium, consisting of long cells, often branched at right angles. Sclerotia are relatively small, consisting of T-shaped or cruciform cells that are not separated from the hyphae.
Development cycle. The causative agent of the disease persists in the soil, including virgin soil. The pathogen infects many hosts, which guarantees its persistence and accumulation of infection in the soil.
Conditions for the development of the disease. Intensive development of the disease is observed during prolonged rainy and cool weather.
Control measures. Creation of new crops on well-leveled and drained soils. When the disease develops strongly, the soil is watered with a solution of broad-spectrum fungicides: foundationazole 5 °SP 0.2%, topsin M 70 NP 0.2% - until the disease is limited.
Control questions
1. Using mint.
2. Name the diseases of mint.
3. Name the pests of mint.
4. What control measures exist against pests and diseases of mint?
7 Sea buckthorn
7.1 Biomorphological features
Sea buckthorn(Siberian pineapple) – Hippophaerhamnoides L. Sucker family – Elaeagnaceae. Other names of the plant: Siberian pineapple, waxweed, jida.
Sea buckthorn (Siberian pineapple) is a shrub or small tree 1.5...2.0 m high. The fruits of sea buckthorn are harvested for medicinal purposes (Figure 12).
Figure 12 – Sea buckthorn plant (on the left – female with fruits, on the right – male)
Sea buckthorn fruits contain a significant amount of pigments and carotene, which determine the intense orange color of the berries. In addition, vitamins E (tocopherol), B1, B2, B6 and P were found in the fruits of the plant, as well as essential acids, tannins, coumarins, flavonoids, essential oils, and microelements.
Sea buckthorn oil contains tocopherols, carotenoids, vitamins K, B1, B2, B6, sterols, stigmasterols, β-sitosterol, fatty acids (oleic, linoleic, linolenic), sugars, organic acids and phytoncides. Sea buckthorn oil accelerates the healing process of wounds , and the biologically most active part of the oil is sterols. The direct effect of sea buckthorn oil on the wound stimulates recovery processes.
The distinct regenerative properties of sea buckthorn oil are used in the treatment of eye corneas. Sea buckthorn oil has antibacterial properties; the drug inhibits the growth of Staphylococcus aureus and hemolytic streptococcus.
Sea buckthorn oil has a positive effect on lipid metabolism in the liver, the reaction of lipid peroxidation in membranes, and thanks to tocopherols it protects biological membranes from the damaging effects of chemical agents.
7.2 Sea buckthorn pests and measures to combat them
Sea buckthorn fly– Rhagoletis batava Hering. Systematic position: order Diptera, family Piedfly (Tephritidae).
The fly is 4...5 mm long, black body, yellow head, wings with brown transverse bands. The larva is up to seven mm long, white.
Puparia overwinter in the soil at a depth of up to five cm under damaged sea buckthorn bushes. The emergence of flies begins in mid-June and continues for more than 1 month. After additional feeding, females lay one (less often two) eggs under the skin of unripe berries. The fertility of a female is 95...150 eggs, and of individual individuals - more than 200 eggs. Embryonic development lasts about eight days. The hatched larvae feed on the pulp of the fruit. During its development, which is about one month, the larva damages up to five berries, which first darken and then dry out. Having finished feeding, the larvae leave the fruits and go into the soil to pupate. One generation develops during the year.
Measures to protect against sea buckthorn flies. Loosening the soil between rows. Spatial isolation of new plantings from old ones. If there are 0.5...2.0% of fruits colonized by larvae and eggs, a single treatment of sea buckthorn plantations is carried out with actellik, EC (0.6...0.8 l/ha). Treatments are stopped 30 days before harvesting the berries.
7.3 Sea buckthorn diseases and measures to combat them
Verticillium wilt. The most dangerous disease of sea buckthorn. As a result of the disease, the conducting system of sea buckthorn becomes clogged, causing the plant to die. In August, the leaves of affected plants on all branches or on individual branches turn yellow and fall off. The fruits wrinkle, swellings appear on the bark, which later crack. Plant death occurs very quickly, almost next year.
Control measures. Healthy planting material. Affected plants are dug up and sea buckthorn is not planted in their place for several years.
Endomycosis. This disease is of fungal origin and is focal in nature. The onset of the disease occurs in early August. Fruits affected by this disease become flabby, soft, their shell becomes discolored and filled with grayish mucus, which does not have the characteristic odor of sea buckthorn. After two weeks, the shell of diseased berries easily ruptures and its contents leak onto the fruit, infecting them. Dew and rain contribute to the spread of this disease. Infections can be carried by some insects. The pathogen overwinters on the bark or inner skin of the burst fruit, which are the source of infection of the fruits of the new harvest.
Protection measures. Spray with a one percent solution of Bordeaux mixture or a 0.4% solution of copper oxychloride. The first treatment should be carried out immediately after the end of flowering of females, and the second in mid-July.
Blackleg. The causative agents are soil fungi. Plants become thinner at the point where the seedling's sea buckthorn knee comes into contact with the soil, causing the plant to fall and die.
To prevent this disease, sea buckthorn seedlings must be grown on a substrate of fresh turf soil mixed with washed river sand. In order to prevent the disease, it is necessary to water the seedlings with a solution of potassium permanganate once every four to five days.
Sea buckthorn thrives on soils that are light in mechanical composition and contain a sufficient amount of organic matter. Therefore, when planting plants, add peat and sand (1:1) to the hole. Dried shoots and root shoots must be systematically cut out. The soil should be loosened by 5...10 cm. The bushes should be watered regularly. Dig up severely affected plants. Wounds after cutting branches must be disinfected with a 1% solution of copper sulfate or 3% iron sulfate and covered with garden varnish. Sea buckthorn should not be planted in an area that was occupied by strawberries, as they have the same type of diseases. In the fall, old leaves are removed, tree trunks are dug up, the trunks are cleaned, and they are washed with an ash solution. At the end of October - beginning of November, tree trunks are whitewashed.
Control questions
1. Use of sea buckthorn.
2. Name the diseases of sea buckthorn.
3. Name the pests of sea buckthorn.
4. What control measures exist against pests and diseases of sea buckthorn?
8 Hops
8.1 Morphobiological features
Hop(lat.Húmulus) is a genus of flowering plants in the hemp family. The genus contains two species: common or climbing hop (Humuluslupulus) L.; Japanese or climbing hop (Humulus japonicus) SieboldetZucc.
Herbaceous dioecious plants, climbing upward clockwise, with opposite palmate leaves, with interpetiolate stipules (Figure 13).
Figure 13 – Common hop plantations
Male inflorescences on second-order branches in the form of a complex panicle consisting of dichasias turning into curls. A male flower with a five-leaved perianth and five stamens with straight filaments. Female flowers in cone-shaped complex inflorescences. The scales of the cones, arranged in pairs, represent stipules of undeveloped leaves, in the axil of which there are double curls of two to four or six flowers, without flowers of the first order. The bracts located near the flowers grow during the fruits and bear glands containing lupulin. Female flowers consist of a pistil, surrounded at the base by a filmy, entire-edged cup-shaped perianth.
Figure 14 – Common hop inflorescence (on the left – female, on the right – male)
The fruit is a nut with a spirally coiled embryo. It blooms in July–August, bears fruit in August–September (Figure 14).
Hops are mainly used in medicine and the food industry. Hop cones are a raw material for brewing. The stems are suitable for making low grades of paper, as well as coarse yarn suitable for burlap and rope.
8.2 Pests of common hops and measures to combat them
Hop aphid–Phrodon humuli Sehr. order of Homoptera– Homoptera, family of aphids Aphididae.
Hop aphids are one of the most dangerous hop pests. It is a dioecious, or migratory, species. At first, the hop aphid feeds on the sap of plants on which the eggs overwinter and its first generations develop. These are plants from the genus Prunus (plum, apricot, sloe, cherry plum). The intermediate “breadwinner” is hops, on which aphids feed and reproduce in the summer.
During the growing season, hop aphids develop a series of generational cycles on both plants, which differ from each other in physiological and morphological characteristics.
Hop aphid eggs overwinter on one- to two-year-old shoots, as well as on the basal shoots of plums, cherry plums, sloe, near the buds, in the folds of the bark, etc.
Freshly laid eggs of aphids are green, but over time they become black with a shiny surface, ellipsoidal in shape. Aphids lay one or two eggs, or several at a time, behind and around the buds. During winter, about 25...35% of laid eggs die from sudden temperature fluctuations and other unfavorable conditions. A significant number of them are pecked by tits.
In spring, at a temperature of 8...10 °C, dark green aphid larvae hatch from eggs that have overwintered. The emergence of larvae generally coincides with the period of formation of the green cone. The larvae first feed on the buds and then, when the leaves open, on the underside of the plum leaves. After 13...15 days, depending on the weather, after four molts they turn into adult viviparous females, which are called founders, since these larvae with their descendants form the first settlements of aphids.
The founders are about 2.5 mm long, wingless, ovoid in shape. Aphids emerging from eggs, like their descendants - a number of further generations, will develop on plums and hops until autumn - all exclusively females that reproduce without fertilization, parthenogenetically and, in addition, are viviparous (i.e. they do not lay eggs, but give birth larvae).
The founders give birth to about 100 larvae during two or three weeks of their lives. They suck the juice from the leaves of fruit trees and after 12...14 days they again turn into adults, who are now ordinary wingless parthenogenetic females; those, in turn, begin to reproduce in the same way.
Wingless parthenogenetic females (2.4 mm long) are somewhat thinner than the founders, have long legs and antennae. On the frontal tubercles and the first segments of the antennae there are two teeth protruding forward - a characteristic feature of this genus of aphids.
During April and May, aphids on fruit trees develop two to four generations. Due to the sucking of juices, the leaves of plum, thorn, cherry plum or apricot curl down, the shoots become bent and stop growing. A certain part of the aphid larvae of the penultimate generation remains on the plums, and in the last generation almost all the larvae develop into nymphs that have the rudiments of wings. After the last moult, the nymphs develop into winged females, which are also parthenogenetic and viviparous. These forms are called dispersers. They are dark green in color, 1.9 mm long. The eyes are brown-red, the antennae and legs are black.
Spreaders appear on hops if the spring is warm and friendly, in the second or third ten days of May. However, more often the migration of aphids from trees to hops begins in early June, although some winged individuals migrate even in July. The mass flight lasts two to three weeks and ends in the second ten days of June. Aphids fly a distance of 1.0...1.5 km, and further with the wind.
The colonizers that have flown to the hops colonize the young parts of the plant: the upper leaves and the tips of the shoots. Here, aphids often hide in the folds of leaves and may not be noticed. After feeding on hop juices, the settlers hatch 20…30 larvae. After two weeks, these larvae develop into ordinary wingless parthenogenetic viviparous females (summer form), differing from the similar form on plums only in their smaller size and lighter color.
Summer parthenogenetic females hatch about 100 larvae in 20...28 days. By autumn, six to eight generations of aphids develop on the hops.
Aphids settle on the underside of hop leaves. On old leaves they are contained on the plate along the veins, on young leaves - in the wrinkles of the leaves, and on cones - between the scales. During mass reproduction, aphids sometimes abundantly cover leaves, young stems and cones.
Aphids have piercing-sucking mouthparts and cause enormous damage to hops by sucking out juices. As a result, the tissues are deformed under the influence of enzymes from the pest’s saliva, metabolism is disrupted, the leaves turn yellow and dry out, the flowers die, the cones turn brown and lose their quality.
In addition, hops are harmed by aphid excrement, which in the form of a liquid, the so-called honeydew, falls on the surface of the leaves of the lower tiers, on the stems, on the cones and covers them with a shiny film. In humid weather, a sooty fungus, called leaf black, develops on these sticky secretions. It covers leaves, stems, and cones with a continuous film, slowing down assimilation and respiration. Black leaves overheat in the sun, turn yellow, dry out and fall off. Cones covered with honeydew become sticky and then turn black and lose their value. When aphids multiply massively, the hop yield is reduced by 50% or more or may die completely. The temperature favorable for the development of aphids is 17...20 °C, with high (more than 60%) air humidity.
At the end of August or beginning of September, when conditions for the further development of aphids on hops become less favorable, winged viviparous, parthenogenetic migratory females reappear among the autumn generation, which in appearance are very similar to dispersers. They fly to the primary food plants - fruit trees and hatch 7...15 larvae, which feed on the plastic substances of plums, cherry plums, etc., and after the fourth molt they turn into egg-laying females.
Female egg-bearers are wingless, 1.5...2.0 mm long, elongated-ovoid in shape, yellowish-green in color, the tibiae of the hind legs are thickened and dark-colored. One to one and a half weeks after the egg-laying eggs are born, males appear on the hops.
Winged males are very similar in appearance to females, but are smaller and more rounded. The males fly to plum, cherry plum, and apricot trees and mate with egg-laying eggs, after which they lay six to twelve eggs, which overwinter.
Spider mite–Tetranycuhs urticae Koch. Spider mite family– Tetranychidae, order of mites– Acariformes.
Spider mites are one of the most dangerous pests of hops. The body of the mite has clear, long setae, which are arranged in several transverse rows. The mouthparts are piercing-sucking type. The egg-shaped body has four pairs of legs.
The female is 0.45...0.50 mm in size, oval in shape, brick-red in winter, yellowish-greenish in summer, with dark spots on the sides. Body covered with sparse hairs arranged in rows.
Male size 0.25...0.40 mm, greenish, ovoid, body pointed towards the anus. The larva is greenish-yellowish, six-legged, with barely noticeable bristles. Nymphs are quadrupedal and differ from the adult stage in body size and brightness of pigmentation.
Spider mites are a widespread polyphagous pest. Develops on more than 200 species of cultivated and weed plants. Most often found on legumes, pumpkins, cottonseeds, hops, etc. Yield losses can exceed 70%.
Among wild plants, the mite settles on nettle, catnip, midge, godwit, thistle, birch, etc. On plants, the spider mite inhabits the underside of the leaf, entwining accumulations with a thin web, under which it feeds and reproduces.
The dangers of spider mites are that:
– due to loss of nutrients, plants are greatly weakened;
– by sucking the juice from the leaves, mites tear the epidermis, resulting in increased evaporation of moisture;
– while feeding, mites secrete saliva into the leaf tissue, which contains enzymes that disrupt the physiological functions in hop leaves and cause cell death;
– due to damage, small yellow spots appear on the leaves, which merge over time, forming large yellow and then brown spots. The leaves curl and dry out. Damaged shoots turn yellow and stop growing. The scales on damaged cones dry out and turn brown. The cones are disheveled, lightweight, and often fall off.
During years of mass reproduction of the pest, eighty days after the plantation is colonized by spider mites, the hops may die completely.
Fertilized females overwinter in colonies in the cavities of weed stems, in the wrinkles of tree bark, in the cracks of pillars, and between lumps of topsoil.
In the spring, when the temperature warms up to 12...14 °C, the females leave their wintering grounds and settle on weeds (nettle, midge, sow thistle, etc.). Females slowly lose their winter coloration and acquire summer coloration. Three to four days after the start of feeding, at a temperature of 18...20 °C, they already lay eggs (spherical and transparent) 0.10...0.14 mm long, placing them on the webs on the underside of the leaves. The eggs, depending on the temperature, develop from three to twelve days; before the larvae emerge, they acquire a dull color. On weeds, the mite produces three to four generations before switching to hops.
The larvae emerging from the egg, like adult mites, break through the leaf shell with their jaws and feed on the juices and chlorophyll of the parenchyma (pulp) of the leaf. It takes 2.5...3.0 weeks for the larvae to develop into adult ticks. During the dry summer, spider mites can produce nine or more generations. Females lay from 100 to 200 eggs during their life (28...30 days).
Considering that sucking pests develop in nine or more generations during the hop growing season, there is a need for systematic alternation of drugs to prevent resistance. During the period of growth and development of hops, four to five sprayings with insectoacaricides have to be carried out against hop aphids and spider mites. The effectiveness of the drugs is important. The annual intensive use of chemicals on hops leads to an acceleration of the selection of resistant races, forces us to increase the consumption rates of the drugs and periodically change them.
An environmentally friendly system for protecting hops from sucking pests. When protecting hops from sucking pests, agrotechnical and precautionary measures are of great importance. Within a radius of 1.0...1.5 km, wild and feral hops, thorn bushes, cherry plums and wild plums are removed and destroyed. In the gardens of collective farms and on personal plots, the shoots of cultivated plums are cut down.
Mint - has a low, outstretched stem, it can reach a length of up to 1 m, with pubescent shoots. Mint leaves are round, ovoid or oblong with a pointed tip. Their edges are jagged. The leaf blades are pubescent on the front and bottom sides, less often bare with short petioles. Of all the plants belonging to the Lamiaceae family, mint has the most simple flowers. In peppermint, these flowers are small with bell-shaped cups, reddish-violet, hairy and collected in round half-whorls, forming spike-shaped inflorescences. Mint blooms from June to September. Mint is pollinated by flies and beetles.
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Introduction……………………………………………………………...3
Chapter 1. Biological features of mint.................................... 4-5
1.2. Types of mint………………………………………………………………...5-13
Chapter 2.Features of mint agricultural technology………………...……13-15
Chapter 3. The meaning of mint……………………………………...15-18
Chapter 4. Pests and diseases of mint, as well as measures to combat them……………………………………………………………………………………….18-21
Conclusion…………………………………………..……….22-23
Literature…………………………………………………….…23
INTRODUCTION
Mint names of plants from the Lamiaceae (Lamiaceae) family. The most ancient mentions of mint date back to Assyrian and ancient Egyptian culture; its description was found on cuneiform waxed tablets, as well as in the tombs of Egyptian pharaohs. Hippocrates and Avicenna mentioned mint when describing the medicinal properties of this plant in their works. The modern name for the plant was given by the ancient Greeks in honor of the nymph Menta. She was the beloved of Hades, the ruler of the underworld, and when his jealous wife Persephone found out about the betrayal, she turned the nymph into a plant in revenge. Hades was upset, but all he could do was give the plant a characteristic fragrant aroma.
Purpose This course work is to study the literature on the topic “New varieties of mint: biology and agricultural technology,” as well as conduct an experimental part on growing mint. To achieve this goal, the following were identified: tasks :
- Describe the biological features of mint.
- Consider the meaning of mint
- Explore different varieties of mint.
- Describe the features of mint agricultural technology.
- Describe mint pests and measures to combat them.
- Conduct an experimental part on growing different varieties of mint at home.
CHAPTER 1.BIOLOGICAL FEATURES OF MINT
Mint has a low, outstretched stem, it can reach a length of up to 1 m, with pubescent shoots. Mint leaves are round, ovoid or oblong with a pointed tip. Their edges are jagged. The leaf blades are pubescent on the front and bottom sides, less often bare with short petioles. Of all the plants belonging to the Lamiaceae family, mint has the most simple flowers. In peppermint, these flowers are small with bell-shaped cups, reddish-violet, hairy and collected in round half-whorls, forming spike-shaped inflorescences. Mint blooms from June to September. Mint is pollinated by flies and beetles.
During the growing season, mint goes through the following phases of development: emergence, branching, budding and flowering. The onset, passage and duration of these phases are directly dependent on the growing conditions.
In years with less precipitation during the growing season, accelerated development and occurrence of individual phases is observed in a shorter period, and in years with high precipitation there is a delay in phases, despite the fact that average temperatures fluctuate within the same limits.
And this wonderful plant blooms all summer. But it must be said that such a wonderful plant, which is mint, is also grown artificially, and all this happens only due to the fact that this plant is an essential oil plant. Mint loves moisture very much, so it can often be found near bodies of water, and it grows in damp forests. So you have a chance to meet it in swampy and damp places in the forest.
There is another type of plant that is very close to mint. This is lemon balm. It is even often called lemon balm. And in appearance this plant is also very similar to mint, but a very significant difference is that it has a lemon smell. This plant is widespread in more southern latitudes, so it is difficult to find it in the taiga.
The main component of mint is menthol. Mint also contains a large amount of essential oils. And for the sake of this component, it is cultivated artificially. Thanks to the pleasant, cool, refreshing and aromatic taste of its dark green leaves, mint is widely used in the culinary, confectionery, liquor and tobacco industries. It is added to teas, soft drinks, syrups, ice cream and candies. Mint powder is added to minced meat. Mint sauce goes well with lamb dishes. In the form of fresh greens, it is added to soups and salads.
1.1.TYPES OF MINT
|
Type of mint |
Peculiarities |
Usage |
|
Peppermint (Mentha piperita) Peppermint |
This species is grown in many countries. The plants reach a height of 80 cm and are easily recognized by their serrated leaves with a purple edge. The leaves have a pleasant smell and a refreshing cooling taste. There are two forms of peppermint: black and white. The most intensively cultivated is black (also called English) mint, which gives a significantly higher yield of essential oil than white mint. White mint is less commonly cultivated, which produces less essential oil, but with a more subtle aroma. |
Peppermint combines taste benefits and medicinal effects. Peppermint oil is included in many medicinal preparations: mint drops, stomach tablets, various ointments. Essential oil also serves as a raw material for the production of menthol, the main component of mint essence, which is added to toothpastes, powders, and colognes. In home cooking, mint is used in making drinks, adding leaves to fruit drinks, compotes, jelly, and syrups. They are used to season meat dishes (lamb, lamb), as well as poultry. Dry ground mint is added to homemade baked goods: buns, pies, cookies. Peppermint is included in liqueur flavorings. |
|
mint (Mentha spicata Huds.) Spearmint |
This mint can most often be found in gardens and vegetable gardens. The plants are quite powerful, about 90 cm high. The main substance of mint essential oil is carvone, so it does not have such a strong cooling and burning effect as peppermint. |
Garden mint was the first to be used in cooking, as well as in the production of chewing gum, alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks. Added to tea. In addition, it is used to flavor toothpaste, in soap making and perfumery. The medicinal properties of this species are much less pronounced than those of peppermint. |
|
Mint (Mentha crispa L.) |
Can serve as a partial substitute for garden mint. It grows as a bush, reaching a height of 80-90 cm. It differs from other types of mint in its curly leaves and good frost resistance. It combines the flavor properties of several mint plants, while maintaining its rather delicate and pleasant mint taste. |
Peppermint differs from spearmint in the absence of a menthol flavor. It is widely used in cooking: more boldly than peppermint. The leaves, rich in various beneficial substances, are boiled and used in folk medicine as a sedative, as well as to relieve pain from bruises and for medicinal baths. |
|
Field mint (Mentha arvensis L.) |
It grows in almost all corners of the planet, including Russia, most often in the wild. The bushes, reaching a height of 80 cm, have a branched stem and a large creeping rhizome. Field mint lacks the pungent odor and cooling menthol taste characteristic of peppermint. |
As a spice, field mint is used in raw and dried form to flavor salads, vegetable soups, fish dishes, when baking confectionery, and in preparing tonic drinks. Serves as an additive to teas. It is also used to increase the shelf life of products, for example, when pickling cabbage. In folk medicine, decoctions of field mint are used for headaches and inflammatory processes. |
|
Longleaf mint(Mentha longifolia L. Huds.) |
The plant of this species is quite powerful, reaching a height of 90-120 cm. It has a large creeping rhizome and a tetrahedral branched stem. The leaves are dark green with serrated-toothed edges and have a pleasant, delicate scent. |
this species is mainly grown for its essential oil with a pleasant herbaceous-spicy odor. It has antiseptic, analgesic properties and improves digestion. In home cooking, it is added to salads, vegetable soups and broths. Used to flavor main meat courses, especially fried beef and kebabs. Place in dough products (pies, gingerbread). Used for pickling eggplants and sauerkraut. Longleaf mint is also used in the perfume industry and soap making. |
|
Apple mint (Mentha rotundifolia) |
It grows as a bush up to 60 cm high. It differs from other species in its graceful, more rounded and velvety leaves. The aboveground part is dark green. |
The delicate, less intense aroma of apple mint distinguishes it from other types of mint. It can be successfully added not only to salads, soups, meat dishes, but also to various drinks, sweet dishes and homemade baked goods.. |
Lemon mint. The stem is erect, branched, slightly pubescent, 80-100 cm high, heavily leafy. The leaves are opposite, round, ovate, jagged at the edges: they are dark green on the upper side, lighter below, covered with glandular hairs. The flowers are bisexual, white or pink, small, collected in false whorls, located in the axils of the upper leaves. The calyx is green, bell-shaped; corolla two-lipped. The fruits are ovoid, brown, 2 mm long and 1 mm in diameter.Demanding on warmth and light. It can also grow in shady places, but the yield decreases and the plant becomes less fragrant.
Peppermint - a perennial herbaceous plant with a horizontal branched rhizome and thin fibrous roots. Stem erect, 30 x 100 cm in height, hollow, tetrahedral, straight, branched, densely leafed, glabrous or with sparse short appressed hairs. The leaves are opposite, oblong-ovate, short-petiolate, pointed, with a heart-shaped base and a serrated edge. The flowers are small, bisexual or pistillate, light purple in color, collected at the tops of the shoots in semi-whorls forming spike-shaped inflorescences (thyrsus). The corolla is five-membered, slightly irregular (vaguely two-lipped), pinkish or pale purple. Blooms from late June to September. The fruit is a coenobium, consisting of four nuts. Fruits are rarely produced.
Chemical composition: plants contain essential oil, tannins and resins, carotene, hesperidin, ascorbic acid (0.0095%), chlorogenic acid (0.7%), coffee acid (0.52%), ursolic acid (0.3% ) and oleanolic (0.12%) acids, rutin (0.014%), betaine, arginine, neutral saponins, glucose, rhamnose, phytosterol. Fatty oil (20%) was found in the seeds.
The oil is colorless, with a yellowish or greenish tint, with a pleasant refreshing taste and smell. As it sits, it thickens and darkens. The main component of the essential oil is the secondary alcohol l-menthol (4592%). The leaf oil also contains menthol esters with acetic and valeric acids, α- and β-pinene, limonene, dipentene, phellandrene, cineol, citral, geraniol, carvone, dihydrocarvone.
Catnip - perennial herbaceous plant 40-100 cm high. Outwardly resembles mint. Stems are branched, tetrahedral. The leaves are opposite, cordate-ovate and oblong, pubescent, sharp, pollen-shaped. The flowers are five-membered, two-lipped, whitish, small, collected in dense paniculate-spike-shaped inflorescences. The flowers may be white or have a bluish-purple tint. Dry fruit that breaks down into 4 nuts. Catnip is a winter-hardy plant. Light- and moisture-loving. Prefers soil that is structural, light in mechanical composition, fairly fertile and free from weeds. It has a strong, unique odor and a pleasantly bitter taste that attracts cats. Grows among bushes, in vacant lots, near roads.
Melissa - perennial essential oil herbaceous plant 30x120 cm high, species of the genus Melissa ( Melissa ) family Lamiaceae ( Lamiaceae ). The rhizome is highly branched. The stem is branched, tetrahedral, pubescent with short hairs with an admixture of glands or almost bare. The leaves are opposite, petiolate, ovate to rounded-rhombic, crenate-serrate, pubescent. The flowers are collected in false rings of 6 x 12; calyx with lower subulate teeth, long-haired and glandular; the corolla is bluish-white or pale lilac. Four stamens, a pistil with a four-parted upper ovary and a long style. The fruit is large, consists of four ovoid nuts, black, shiny. Seeds remain viable for 2-3 years. Blooms in June/August. The fruits ripen in August–September. Melissa is less winter-hardy than catnip. Since lemon balm and catnip are often confused, it is important to pay attention to the external differences. Catnip forms apical inflorescences at the ends of branches, while lemon balm does not have them. Its flowers are located in whorls in the axils of the leaves of the upper part of the stem. Melissa leaves are light, bright green, while catnip leaves have a dull grayish tint.
Snakehead - perennial, often annual plant, 15x50 cm high.The root is thin, taproot.The stem is erect, tetrahedral, short-haired, branched from the base, with long branches directed obliquely upward. Leaves have short petioles, opposite, oblong-ovate or oblong-lanceolate, blunt-toothed at the edges, dark green; apical leaves lanceolate; The bracts are oblong-wedge-shaped. The flower of the Moldovan dragonhead, like other species of this genus, vaguely resembles the head of a snake (dragon). The flowers are pale purple, on short pedicels in six-flowered false whorls. The calyx is short-haired, two-lipped; corolla 20x25 mm long, white or bluish-violet, pubescent on the outside. The fruit is a triangular, oblong nut, dark brown in color, 2.8 x 3.1 mm long, 1.5 x 1.8 mm thick. Blooms in July/August. Fruits in August-September.
CHAPTER 2. FEATURES OF AGRICULTURAL MINT
Place of cultivation
Mint prefers a sunny location and fertile, deep, loose and fairly moist soil. It also tolerates shade well, but in this case the soil should be less moist. This crop grows especially well on moist, rich black soil. On calcareous soil it loses a lot of flavor. Places with excessive moisture and heavy clay soil are unsuitable for mint. The preceding plant can be various vegetables, under which the soil is fertilized with manure. Usually mint does not stay in one place for more than 2-3 years, since its shoots “migrate” from the planting site. After mint, potatoes, onions, green peas and other vegetables are planted.
Propagation and planting of mint
Mint is easily propagated vegetatively by rhizome cuttings, preferably in the 3-5 leaf phase. Cuttings are planted in the summer, and they are first rooted in the sand and then placed in a permanent place. Rhizomes from old bushes are divided and planted in spring or early autumn, placing them with row spacing of 50 x 60 cm, and in a row with spacing of 20 x 35 cm.
Planting is carried out in early spring (late April - early May) and in August. Soil preparation is done in advance. Before planting, the deeply cultivated and weed-free area for mint is finally cut up with a harrow, and then divided into ridges. In damp places they are made higher, and in dry areas, on the contrary, the ridges are deepened into the ground so that rainwater can be better retained. The cut rhizome cuttings are placed in the grooves made in the beds and covered with soil.
During the summer, the planting is loosened 2×3 times, weeds are regularly removed and fed by adding 10 m 2 250 x 300 g each of superphosphate, ammonium nitrate and potassium salt.
If you are going to grow mint in your garden or vegetable garden, keep in mind that mint has one drawback - it is quite aggressive and grows strongly, thanks to creeping rhizomes, occupying more and more spaces. To prevent it from causing you a lot of trouble, you need to immediately protect it by burying restrictive strips of iron, plastic or slate at the depth of the rhizomes.
Mint care
Caring for mint involves loosening the soil, hilling, watering (as needed) and weeding. Plant feeding is carried out in early spring. To obtain more green mass in the spring as it grows, it is recommended to carry out severe pruning: the mint will bush better.
To protect against frost, the ridges are covered in the fall with a layer of loose soil, or covered with spruce branches, straw, dry leaves, spruce branches or manure. Mint plantings should be renewed every 3-4 years, as they have poor weed resistance and quickly fall out.
Preparation and storage of mint
Mint produces a harvest from the first year of life. Before eating fresh, remove the leaves from the stem and tear, cut or use whole, depending on the recipe. Fresh mint is added as a spicy herb to salads, lactic acid soups, meat, seafood and fish, bean and pea hot dishes. It should be borne in mind that heat treatment kills freshness, so it is recommended to add spice to hot dishes before serving.
Cut mint wilts very quickly on a hot day, so keep it in a cool place, wrapped in a damp kitchen towel or in an airtight container in the refrigerator.
Mint also dries well. It is recommended to collect for drying in July-August, at the beginning of flowering, since the leaves during this period accumulate the greatest number of useful substances and are pleasant to the taste. The cut stems are dried in the shade in bunches, then the inflorescences and leaves are torn off, ground into a not very fine powder and stored in a tightly closed container in a dry, cool, place protected from the sun. In this form, mint retains its scent well all winter.
Growing mint in a container
When cultivating mint, you must remember that it grows quickly and can displace other crops from the site. Therefore, it is better to plant it in containers. For example, you can plant it in old metal and wooden containers, then you will be able to move it around the garden.
Most mint species have beautiful, pleasant-smelling leaves and flowers that attract bees and bumblebees. Therefore, it is quite right to grow this crop as an ornamental plant. In addition to large containers placed in the garden, it grows successfully in boxes or tubs on balconies and terraces, as it is a very unpretentious plant.
CHAPTER 3. MEANING OF MINT
Use in cooking:
For culinary purposes, both fresh and dried mint leaves and shoots are used, which have a characteristic cooling taste and a sharp menthol aroma. Fresh mint is added to salads, vegetable soups, fish and cheese dishes, meat marinades, drinks, sauces and used in the preparation of confectionery and baked goods.
In American cuisine, mint is used to flavor drinks and added to various fruit and vegetable salads; in English cuisine it is added to sauces for lamb, lamb and poultry; in Oriental, Italian and Spanish cuisines it is used as a spice or added to various spice mixtures.
From fresh leaves and shoots of mint, essential oil and menthol are obtained, which are widely used in the perfumery, confectionery, alcoholic beverage industries and in the production of medicines.
Application in medicine:
Mint is a valuable medicinal plant. It is used in official and folk medicine. Peppermint oil is included in validol, various drops, mint lozenges, cough drops, tooth powders and pastes. Mint leaves are used in the form of a water infusion as a means of improving digestion, against intestinal spasms, and nausea. Mint is included in delicious teas, carminative, choleretic, gastric, diaphoretic, sedative teas, as well as in aromatic bath teas. Mint relieves heartburn and bad belching. No wonder they say that it cools the mouth, but warms the intestines.
In scientific medicine, peppermint is used in the form of a menthol preparation, which is prepared from essential oil, as well as in the form of tincture and mint water (for rinsing). In order to improve digestion, plant leaves are consumed. Peppermint oil is included in medications that have antiseptic, anticonvulsant and tonic properties.
In folk medicine, peppermint is used quite widely. It is effective as a sedative for heart and nervous diseases, as a strengthening agent for loss of strength, it is used for cholera, rheumatism, toothache, and as a means of regulating the gastrointestinal tract. This plant is used as an auxiliary choleretic agent. A decoction of mint relieved diarrhea.
Mint is used for hemorrhoids, female diseases, and severe headaches as a fast-acting external remedy (in the form of fresh leaves). Mint is used for rickets, scrofula (in the form of tincture, juice or bath decoctions).
For bleeding from the lungs, a mint decoction is useful, and for bloody vomiting, a vinegar decoction is useful.
For severe bad breath, Bulgarian doctors recommend rinsing your mouth with an infusion of mint and red wine and at the same time taking this infusion orally, one tablespoon 2-3 times a day.
Application in cosmetics
Mint has long been used for cosmetic purposes. It is used for soothing and anti-inflammatory masks. Brew a tablespoon of mint with a glass of boiling water, cover with a lid, leave for half an hour and filter. The resulting infusion is used to wipe the inflamed areas. For sagging skin, a hot herbal compress made from a mixture is useful: peppermint, linden blossom in equal proportions. A tablespoon of raw material is brewed with a glass of boiling water, infused and filtered. The moistened napkin is lightly wrung out and applied to the face. Keep the compress for 8-10 minutes, soaking the fabric in the hot broth.
To refresh a tired face, make a contrasting compress of mint and cold water. Soak a napkin in hot mint infusion and hold it on your face for 2-3 minutes, then apply a napkin soaked in cold water. The procedure is repeated 2-3 times. For dry skin, make a mask of brewed dry mint (2 tablespoons of chopped herb, pour 50 g of water and heat). Apply the mask to a clean face and keep for 15-20 minutes. For acne-prone skin, it is good to make lotions from infusions of mint, horsetail, yarrow and sage in equal proportions. Pour one tablespoon of the mixture into a glass of boiling water, let it brew and strain. Apply the liquid to a clean face using a cotton swab.
Contraindications:
When consumed in large quantities, mint can cause poor sleep, heart pain and decreased libido in men.
Mint is contraindicated in case of individual intolerance, during pregnancy and lactation and in children under 5 years of age.
CHAPTER 4. PESTS, DISEASES OF MINT AND MEASURES TO CONTROL THEM
Mint is a plant attractive not only to humans, but also to many pests and diseases. Their list turns out to be very extensive and, accordingly, when growing mint, you need to be on the alert all the time.
It starts to bother me as soon as it grows back mint flea beetle (Longatarsus licopi Faudr.). Its rather small beetles and larvae, 1.5 mm in size, are straw-yellow in color and make round holes in the leaves. These pests are especially rampant if the spring is dry, without heavy rainfall and at the same time warm. The damage caused by this pest in some years can be very severe.
Another pest of mintgreen shieldweed(Cassida viridis L.), which also begins to rage immediately from the beginning of spring regrowth and during the period of intensive growth. Beetles and larvae make rounded holes in the leaves and gnaw off the edges.
Peppermint leaf beetle (Chrysomela menthastri Suffr) a small bug, 7-10 mm in size, green in color with a metallic sheen. Beetles and larvae chew holes and damage the edges of leaves.
Aphid (Aphis menthae L., Brachycaudus helichryi Kalt) - up to 2 mm in size, dark green, located in colonies at the bottom of the leaf. Basically, it damages the upper part of the shoot and the plant stops growing normally and forming full-fledged leaves. Destroyed during deep autumn digging. In some years it can noticeably affect plants.
Cicadas (Empoasca pteridis Dhlb) Adults and larvae suck the juice from the leaves and they begin to dry out. Young, growing plants are especially susceptible to attack by the pest.
Mint can be attacked from both sides weevils (Tanymecus palliatus F., Bothynoderes punctiventris Germ.) the beetles gnaw off the edges of the leaves, and the larvae quietly and unnoticed feed on the roots. The only joy is that this pest is not announced every year.
But the meadow moth (Pyrausta sticticalis L.), which can eat up the plant almost completely, in some years causes very severe damage.
Peppermint mite - a dangerous pest in the south. It overwinters in the soil at a depth of 10 cm. From May to August it feeds on the sap of the tops of shoots, and in August it goes into the soil for the winter. Distributed with planting material. Control measures: deep digging, treatment of planting material with acaricides and return of mint to its original place no earlier than after 3 years
Slobbering Penny- (Philaenus spumarius L.). Adults and larvae cause deformation of vegetative and generative shoots, and its presence is accompanied by the appearance of white foamy lumps on the stems and in leaf axils.
If mint grows in combination with wheatgrass or in the place where potatoes grew last year, beware wireworm (larvae of click beetles), which gnaws the roots. Here the control measures are only preventive battle with wheatgrass and planting mint after crops that are not interesting to this pest.
In addition to the listed pests, mint can be damaged by all kinds of caterpillars, which, like the cabbage cutworm, round-winged moth and burdock, gnaw leaves, the meadow moth, whose caterpillars eat the entire above-ground mass, and, of course, the ubiquitous mole cricket, which gnaws the roots.
How to deal with all these numerous pests? Insecticides are used in production, for example deltamethrin (Decis), which is applied once in case of severe damage by these pests, but no later than 25-30 days before the intended harvest. However, in a summer cottage, in a craving for everything environmentally friendly, it is better to take preventive measures, that is, change the place where plants are planted at least once every 2 years, dig up the vacant area deeply, turning the soil, remove it on time and burn plant residues.
Against the pests listed above you canspray the plants with a concentrated decoction of celandine (leave 200 g of dry leaves in 10 liters of water for a day, then add soap and spray the affected plants). A concentrated decoction of bird cherry twigs or an infusion of pine needles (1:1) can help with the scoop.
Of the diseases on mint, the most harmful rust (Puccinia menthae Pers.), which is found in all mint growing areas. This is a fungal disease, the development of which is promoted by high humidity, low air temperatures, excess nitrogen in the soil, as well as perennial mint cultivation. Brown pads appear on the underside of the leaves, which later acquire a dark brown color. Rust is usually combated using preventive measures and spraying. But, for example, in the USA they invented a rather exotic method - burning out the above-ground part using a flamethrower with a propane-butane flame at a pressure of 2-4 atm. and unit speed 1 km/h.
Powdery mildew (Erysiphe cichoracearum DC f. menthae), which manifests itself in the fact that a white cobwebby coating appears on the leaves and stems in the 2nd half of the growing season. Later, black fruiting bodies with spores appear. This disease is very common in the Non-Chernozem zone, where wet and cool weather conditions in August provoke the active development of the disease. Control measures: autumn plowing to a depth of 20 cm; dusting with ground sulfur at a dose of 20 kg/ha; spraying with a 1% solution of colloidal sulfur.
Verticillium wilt(wilt) a disease caused by a pathogenic fungus that penetrates through root hairs. The top 2-3 pairs of leaves turn black and the plant dies. Agrotechnical control measures: compliance with crop rotation, destruction of damaged plantations after harvesting. Replanting after 9 years.
Anthracnose (white grouse) - brown spots appear on leaves affected by the fungus. The fungus overwinters on dead remains. Control measures: plowing, 3-4 times spraying with 1% Bordeaux mixture.
Septoria or leaf spot(Septoria menthicola Sacc) characteristic features are round or angular brown spots (up to 8 mm in size) on the leaves, limited by a black rim and covered with black dots. Control measures are the same as for anthracnose.
The growth of rhizomes is caused by mycoplasma (Micoplasma). Affected plants are stunted in growth, leaves acquire anthocyanin coloring, and rhizomes cease to form. With this disease, it is necessary to destroy damaged plants as quickly as possible and actively fight all gnawing and sucking pests that can transfer the disease from plant to plant. And, of course, transplanting healthy plants to another area. The optimal measures to combat all of the listed diseases are prevention: replant plants in time, cut off plant debris and burn them rather than compost. To avoid rust and powdery mildew, you can cut the crop at the end of July, before the disease begins to spread, and therefore without resorting to chemical means of protection. In addition, an important factor reducing resistance to powdery mildew is excess nitrogen nutrition. But adding phosphorus and viburnum, on the contrary, will increase the plant’s resistance.
CONCLUSION
This paper discusses “New varieties of mint: biology and agricultural technology.”
For a long time, mint has been considered the best plant that can stimulate brain function and improve memory. It was from it that wreaths were made, which were customary for all ancient speakers to wear. And before their performances, it was customary to spray the halls with mint water.
In addition, mint leaves were added to honey, which was eaten. It was believed that honey and mint could freshen breath. And Hippocrates, for diseases of the gastrointestinal tract, prescribed mint water, which was consumed internally.
So why is mint so different from other plants? The fact is that mint leaves contain a complex essential oil, which contains a large amount of menthol. This substance can cool and warm, and also has a pronounced stimulating effect. Who knows, maybe this is the reason why mint tea is so popular, which is usually drunk when you have a cold.
Menthol contained in mint can relax muscles and improve blood circulation. It is contained in many medications that are prescribed for problems with the cardiovascular system and smooth muscle spasms. Peppermint oil is widely used in perfumery.
If you have a headache or there are wounds or ulcers on your body, it is recommended to apply mint leaves to the sore spot. In dentistry, peppermint oil is added to toothpastes and powders. It can soothe toothache and freshen breath.
Tinctures, drops, and infusions of mint leaves are usually taken for inflammation, nausea, flatulence, etc.
An infusion of mint leaves helps relieve nausea, improves the functioning of the digestive system, and is used as a choleretic agent. Peppermint oil can help with diseases related to the heart and nervous system. This oil also helps in the fight against kidney stones, diseases of the digestive system, respiratory tract, and hypertension. Peppermint oil is an excellent remedy for insomnia. Mint leaves are often used externally for tumors and radiculitis. To do this, mint leaves must be crushed and brewed with boiling water: the resulting mass is applied to the skin.
Most often, mint leaves are combined with other herbs in various herbs and medicinal teas. Mint not only shares its healing properties, but also improves the taste of a particular infusion and gives it a refreshing aroma.
LITERATURE
1. Popov V.I., Shapiro D.K., Danusevich I.K. Medicinal plants. Minsk, 1990.
2. Mustyatse G.I. Peppermint culture. Chisinau, 1985.
3. Mashanov V.I., Pokrovsky A.A. Spicy aromatic plants. Moscow, 1991.
4. Shelkovskaya I.P., Zhukova T.Ya., Katsnelson T.A., Kravtsov P.I., Lavrushenko I.P., Radyuk A.F. "Master". Minsk, 1999.
5. Gammerman A.F., Kadaev G.N., Yatsenko-Khmelevsky A.A. Medicinal plants. M.: Higher school, 1990.
6.Internet resources.
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Pest control of horseradish, tarragon and mint
Prevention against the horseradish leaf beetle, or horseradish leaf beetle, begins in the fall: plant debris is carefully removed from the site and the soil is dug up. In summer, damaged plants are treated with a solution of chlorophos (20–30 g per 10–15 l of water), 10% trichlorometaphos-3 (50-100 g per 10 l of water) or 10% karbofos (60 g per 10 l water). If there are a small number of pests, garden crops are sprayed with infusions and decoctions of insecticidal plants (yarrow, chamomile, calendula, wormwood, etc.).
Preventive measures that reduce the likelihood of plants being affected by the horseradish flea beetle include careful weeding, timely fertilizing, and abundant watering of the plants.
At the first detection of pests, the plants are treated with chamomile infusion. To prepare an infusion, pour 1 kg of dried chamomile flowers into 10 liters of water and leave for 12 hours. Then the infusion is filtered and diluted with 20 liters of water, adding 80 g of laundry soap.
Infected crops are also pollinated with ash or a mixture of tobacco dust with ash or lime (1: 1, 5-10 g per 1 m2). Sometimes plants are treated with an infusion of ash (until the pests are completely destroyed). Just before the plants sprout, if in the future there is a danger of them becoming infected with flea beetles, the surface of the soil in the garden bed is sprinkled with ash.
You can treat plants affected by flea beetles with tansy powder. To prepare this rather effective remedy, dried tansy leaves, stems, flowers and seeds are ground into powder, which is used to pollinate garden crops.
But all these methods are ineffective compared to treating garden plants against flea beetles with benzophosphate (10% a.e. or 10% sp.p., 60 g), which is carried out no later than 35–40 days before harvesting .
Horseradish, tarragon and mint are often attacked by cabbage white caterpillars. As preventive measures to protect plants from this pest, in the fall they dig deep into the soil and carefully destroy all plant debris. In spring, plants are planted in the ground as early as possible. If you do not want to use chemicals, then the caterpillars that appear on plants in the spring can be collected manually, and then the crops can be treated with infusions of insecticidal plants (wormwood, chamomile, calendula, tomato and potato tops, onion peels, etc.).
Spraying plants with a solution of 3% vinegar (9 tablespoons per 10 liters of water) often helps in the fight against cabbage white caterpillars. If there are a very large number of caterpillars, the affected plants are sprayed with a chlorophos solution (20–30 g per 15–20 liters of water).
If, when using the above drugs, the caterpillars continue to destroy plants, then chemical treatment cannot be avoided. To combat cabbage whites, dendrobacillin powder (consumption rate 20–25 g) or bitoxabacillin (40–45 g) is best suited. You can also use rovicurt (25% e.g., 10 g), anometrine N (25% e.g., 10 g), benzophosphate (10% e.i., 10 g), lipitocide (30 g per bucket of water), fok-sim (5% s.p., 100–150 g), karbofos (10% s.p. and 10% s.e., 60 g) and entobacterin (20 g per bucket of water).
It should be remembered that chemical treatment of plants is carried out no more than twice per season, with the second treatment being done no later than 40 days before harvesting.
The spider mite that often attacks mint leaves does not like spraying with yarrow infusion or decoction. To prepare a decoction, 800 g of dry crushed plant is boiled for half an hour in a small amount of water, and then water is added so that a total of 10 liters is obtained. And if the broth is left for two days, you will get an infusion, which, by the way, copes more effectively with this pest.
To combat spider mites, gardeners spray plants with an infusion of onion peels (200 g per 10 liters of water) or garlic (150–200 g per 10 liters of water). But all these remedies are not as effective as treatment with 70% colloidal sulfur (50–70 g per 10 liters of water) or black henbane infusion. An infusion of henbane is prepared as follows: 1 kg of dry leaves is poured into 10 liters of water and left for 12–14 hours, after which 40 g of laundry soap is added to the infusion. Due to the toxic properties of black henbane, treatment with infusion is carried out with increased adherence to personal safety measures.
One of the important preventive measures to combat aphids is the timely destruction of plant debris on the site. Plants attacked by aphids are treated with infusion of tobacco or wood ash.
To prepare the infusion, 100 g of tobacco is poured into 1 liter of water and left for a day, and then diluted 2-3 times with water, filtered and added 40 g of green or laundry soap. To prepare an infusion of wood ash, 1 cup of ash and 40 ml of liquid soap are poured into 10–15 liters of hot water and left for 24 hours.
A fairly effective means of combating aphids is to spray infected plants with herbal infusions and decoctions. The most accessible preparations include infusions of garlic, dandelion leaves, horseradish roots, tomato and potato tops, decoctions of calendula, tansy, wormwood and onion peels.
Spraying is carried out 2-3 times with an interval of 5 days. Sometimes 1 tbsp is added to decoctions or infusions. spoon of dry mustard. And immediately before processing the crops, laundry soap is added to the infusion.
Plants affected by aphids are sprayed with an extract of superphosphate (10 g per 10 l of water) mixed with potassium chloride (5 g per 10 l of water). The first spraying with this mixture is carried out when aphids are detected, and the second - no earlier than 3 weeks later.
Often, instead of a second spraying, plants are treated with infusions of tobacco, onion peels, as well as tomato and potato tops.
Often, gardeners use tobacco smoke to kill aphid larvae. To do this, collect plant debris in small piles, add wet straw or grass, as well as a small amount of tobacco dust or shag.
Early in the morning or evening, these piles are set on fire: the smoke, saturated with nicotine, kills not only aphid larvae, but also many other pests.
You can also use a puffball mushroom for fumigation. For this purpose, you need to take only mature, fist-sized, dark green mushrooms inside. The fungus produces a thick, acrid smoke that is used to fumigate plants infected with aphids.
By treating the plants in this way twice at intervals of a week, you can completely get rid of not only aphids, but also many other pests.
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Mentha) is a genus of plants in the Lamiaceae family. The genus has about 25 species and about 10 natural hybrids. All types are highly aromatic, most of them contain the substance menthol. Plants of the Mint genus differ significantly in their chemical composition, which is manifested in a different smell and in a different composition of essential oils.
The name of the genus comes from the name of the nymph Mintha (or Minta), the goddess of Mount Mente in Elis, beloved of the god of the underworld Hades. Hades's wife Persephone turned her into a plant - fragrant mint.
Mint is widely used: in food products, in cosmetics - Japanese mint(Mentha arvensis) and peppermint(Mentha piperita); in herbal medicine and aromatherapy - peppermint, watermint(Mentha aquatica), pennyroyal(Mentha pulegium); in pharmacology - mainly peppermint.
F_AMint is a genus of perennial herbs common in most countries with temperate climates. Thanks to the pleasant, cool, refreshing and aromatic taste of its dark green leaves, mint is widely used in the culinary, confectionery, liquor and tobacco industries.
It is added to teas, soft drinks, syrups, ice cream and candies. Mint powder is added to minced meat. Mint sauce goes well with lamb dishes. In the form of fresh greens, it is added to soups and salads.
In many countries in Europe and Asia, mint is also cultivated for its essential oil, extracted by distilling stems cut before flowering. It is widely used for medicinal purposes, as well as in the perfume industry.
David Eickhoff Propagation and planting of mint
Mint is easily propagated vegetatively - by rhizome cuttings, preferably in the phase of 3-5 leaves. Planting is carried out in early spring (late April - early May) and in August. Soil preparation is done in advance. Before planting, the deeply cultivated and weed-free area for mint is finally cut up with a harrow, and then divided into ridges. In damp places they are made higher, and in dry areas, on the contrary, the ridges are deepened into the ground so that rainwater can be better retained. The cut rhizome cuttings are placed in the grooves made in the beds and covered with soil.
If you are going to grow mint in your garden or vegetable garden, keep in mind that mint has one drawback - it is quite aggressive and grows strongly, thanks to creeping rhizomes, occupying more and more new spaces. To prevent it from causing you a lot of trouble, it is recommended to immediately protect it by burying restrictive strips of iron, plastic or slate at the depth of the rhizomes.
Where to grow mint?
Mint prefers a sunny location and fertile, deep, loose and fairly moist soil. It also tolerates shade well, but in this case the soil should be less moist. This crop grows especially well on moist, rich black soil. On calcareous soil it loses a lot of flavor. Places with excessive moisture and heavy clay soil are unsuitable for mint.
The preceding plant can be various vegetables, under which the soil is fertilized with manure. Usually mint does not stay in one place for more than 2-3 years, since its shoots “migrate” from the planting site. After mint, potatoes, onions, green peas and other vegetables are planted.
Mint care
Caring for mint involves loosening the soil, hilling, watering (as needed) and weeding. Plant feeding is carried out in early spring. To obtain more green mass in the spring, as it grows, it is recommended to carry out severe pruning: the mint will bush better.
To protect against frost, the ridges are covered in the fall with a layer of loose soil, or covered with spruce branches, straw, dry leaves, spruce branches or manure. Mint plantings should be renewed every 3-4 years, as they have poor weed resistance and quickly fall out.
Preparation and storage of mint
Mint produces a harvest from the first year of life. Before eating fresh, remove the leaves from the stem and tear, chop or use whole, depending on the recipe. Fresh mint is added as a spicy herb to salads, lactic acid soups, meat, seafood and fish, bean and pea hot dishes. It should be borne in mind that heat treatment kills freshness, so it is recommended to add spice to hot dishes before serving.
Cut mint wilts very quickly on a hot day, so keep it in a cool place - wrapped in a damp kitchen towel or placed in an airtight container in the refrigerator.
Mint also dries well. It is recommended to collect for drying in July-August, at the beginning of flowering, since the leaves during this period accumulate the greatest number of useful substances and are pleasant to the taste. The cut stems are dried in the shade in bunches, then the inflorescences and leaves are torn off, ground into a not very fine powder and stored in a tightly closed container in a dry, cool, place protected from the sun. In this form, mint retains its scent well all winter.
In dry form, mint can be added to meat soups, roast beef and lamb, veal, to marinades and sauces for meat, to pea and bean soups and other hot dishes.
Pests and diseases
Growing mint is damaged by the mint flea. Measures to combat it would be similar to those recommended against cruciferous flea beetles. This insect produces only one generation per summer. Not only adult beetles harm the plant, but also their larvae (roots). The mint flea pupates in August. This means that in the fall, after the second harvest of mint, you can treat the bed with karbofos (10% emulsion concentrate) 60 g per 10 liters of water.
Forest and Kim Starr In vegetable gardens located in low damp places, mint noticeable damage is caused by beetles and larvae of the mint leaf beetle. Like the previous pest, this insect can damage leaves. Unlike other plants, fusarium in mint manifests itself differently - the plants are stunted in growth, wither, the stems at the root collar darken and rot. Effective control measures have not been developed, but it has been noted that excessive dampness of the site contributes to the development of fusarium. Increased ventilation of the plantation, adherence to high agricultural technology and limited watering are necessary.
Powdery mildew also affects mint. It appears as a white cobwebby coating on the leaves, and at the end of summer black dots also appear. Control measures - weeding, thin planting and on the seed plantation twice, every 10-12 days, spraying with a 1.5% solution of colloidal sulfur with the addition of 40 g of liquid (potassium) or green soap to 10 liters of solution.
mint rust. In infected plants, orange spots appear on the lower surface of the leaf blade. The infection affects plants through the roots. Affected plants must be removed and should not be fertilized.
Emma Cooper Aphids. Insecticidal oils and soaps are suitable as a means of control. The biological enemy of aphids is ladybugs.
Ticks. Small arachnids of different colors (red, brown, yellow or green). They damage leaf cells and feed on cell sap. Affected plants wither and brown spots appear on the leaves. Natural enemies are ladybugs. For control, you can use streams of water or insecticidal soaps.
