The luxurious dense crown of chestnuts gives pleasant coolness in summer, but very often even these mighty trees have problems. Diseases and pests of chestnut can significantly spoil the appearance and even lead to death. What do trees suffer from, and is there a chance to restore their decorative appearance?
Diseases and pests of chestnut: how they manifest themselves and how to treat them
At first glance, chestnuts seem powerful and strong. But even they are not immune from infections, fungi and insects. For example, powdery mildew, familiar to all gardeners and gardeners, thrives and reproduces on ornamental crops. Aphids and other harmful insects do not disdain large leaves. But let's talk about everything in order.
What are the diseases of chestnuts?
Most often, chestnuts, regardless of the type, can be affected by:
- Various types of spotting. With hole spotting, small holes appear on the leaves, and dry brown spots grow around them. Black spot causes the leaves to turn black and fall off. With brown, red-brown spots quickly spread across the leaf and it dries out. Treatment: regular treatment of trees with Bordeaux mixture.
- Necrosis. Tissue death is most often provoked by burns or mechanical damage. Treatment: Such branches should be cut out, and trees should be whitewashed in spring and autumn to prevent necrosis.
- Rotten. Can be root or stem. Treatment: does not exist, trees must be cut down. For prevention, soil treatment with fungicides is necessary.
- Powdery mildew. The white coating on the leaves turns into brown spots and causes them to fall off. Treatment: treatment with fungicides.
In the event of any disease, it is necessary to carefully remove and burn fallen leaves. In addition, dig up tree trunk circles and prune trees in a timely manner.
The main enemy of horse chestnut is leaf miner and other pests.
Small butterflies no more than 4 mm long are capable of completely destroying a grove of common horse chestnut. Their larvae live in leaves and feed on them. First, red spots begin to appear on the leaves at the sites of bites. Over time they become larger and the foliage dries out. As a result, by the end of summer the chestnut tree loses its leafy cap, and only bare trunks remain. The reason for this phenomenon is the mining moth.
Fighting a pest is a thankless task and impossible in urban conditions. Experts in the protection of ornamental trees today suggest treating trees with special hormonal preparations. However, they are very expensive, and besides, they cannot be used in populated areas due to serious side effects. The most reliable option for getting rid of moths is to replace the common chestnut with more resistant varieties. These include red meat horse chestnut. Its leafminer is not very fond of it, and brown spot rarely affects the leaves. Externally, both species are very similar: they have the same crowns and leaves. The main difference between the meat-red chestnut is the inflorescences - they are pink-red in color. The common horse chestnut has white flowers with a yellow or pink tint.
Every gardener has observed brown, white, and black spots on his garden favorites at least once. Leaf spotting not only spoils the appearance of plants, but also deprives the lion's share of the harvest. The spots may have different shape and color. They appear on leaves of any age, but cause the most harm to young plants. There are diseases that affect not only the leaves, but also the fruits. Aggressively manifested spotting leads to drying out of leaves, their premature shedding and, as a consequence, to disruption physiological processes in the plant, its depletion and death.
To figure out how to deal with this “colorful splendor” it is necessary to identify the disease, understand the pathogens and routes of spread. Leaf spotting can be caused by fungi, bacteria and viruses. But most often there are spots of fungal origin, which affect a huge number of garden and indoor crops.
At the initial stage, white spot appears as many small, round brown spots on the foliage. Then these spots grow, the middle becomes lighter, and the edges acquire a brown tint. In humid weather, spots can rot, and in hot weather, they can dry out and fall out, leaving holes on the sheets.
From the foliage the disease spreads throughout the plant. The affected shoots first become covered with brown spots and then die. The fruits become small, tasteless or completely unsuitable for consumption.
Affected crops
Berry crops (strawberries, currants, gooseberries, raspberries) suffer greatly from white spotting. Black currants are more likely to suffer from this disease than red and white ones. On gooseberries, white spotting “covers” the entire bush. Affected leaves dry out and fall off. Berries covered with a white coating lose their taste and rot during high humidity.
An equally deplorable “picture” is when a pear tree is damaged. The first signs of the disease appear in the form of grayish spots already in May. Ripe fruits, as a rule, cover the same “marks”.
White spot can also affect tomatoes. Initially, brownish spots appear on the lower leaves. They then increase in size and spread along the upper stems and petioles. As a rule, the fruits remain intact.
Pathogens
All crops (except gooseberries) are affected by the fungus Mycosphaerella fragariae Lind. The disease is called septoria. The pathogen actively reproduces during periods when rain alternates with sunny days (the fungus develops faster in the light). The optimal temperature for its spread is 20-25°C. But +3 and +35 are not a hindrance for him.
On the affected areas of the leaf, sclerotia with spores are formed, which germinate the following year under favorable conditions.
The source of the spread of septoria is primarily diseased plants and unharvested plant debris.
Gooseberry infection is caused by the fungus Phylosticta Grossulariae Sacc. Its peculiarity is that it “captures” only diseased and old bushes. Moreover, if the disease appears this season, it is not necessary that it will appear in the next one.
Drugs against septoria
Bordeaux mixture is most often used in the fight against septoria. During the period when shrubs and trees are still without foliage, they are treated with a 4% solution. For growing leaves, it is permissible to use a 1% solution. To get rid of white spotting, strawberry beds are sprayed three times with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture:
- first - as soon as the buds begin to appear;
- the second – after 10 days;
- third - after harvest.
Also effective in the fight against white spot are the preparations Horus (consumption 0.7 kg/ha - before flowering and 0.4 kg/ha - after flowering) and Switch (consumption 1 kg/ha).
It is important to remember that strawberries cannot be processed during the fruiting period. If such a forced measure is required, then the berries cannot be eaten after spraying.
Fight without chemicals
Unfortunately, even chemical preparations are not always effective against the fungus Mycosphaerella fragariae Lind. But if you follow preventive measures, the disease can be defeated.
Since the source of infection is infected parts of plants, they must be mercilessly disposed of. If you notice suspicious spots on the leaves of bushes or strawberries, they should be removed immediately.
If the entire strawberry bed is affected, then you need to select young, undamaged rosettes and transplant them to a new location as quickly as possible. Dig up the old bed and plant crops that are not susceptible to this disease.
Tomato seedlings most often suffer from white spotting, so when purchasing it, you need to discard specimens even with small spots. It is better, of course, to grow seedlings yourself, using seeds that are not infected with fungal diseases. If diseased specimens are found in the garden bed, they are removed and burned. After harvesting, do the same with the rest of the tops. In the place where tomatoes grew, next year you can plant only crops that do not suffer from fungal diseases.
When growing tomatoes in a greenhouse, you need to monitor the humidity: ventilate more often and minimize watering.
Can you imagine how offensive it is to the fungus! I woke up in the spring, hoping that it would feast on food and reproduce, but then suddenly - there was no “house”! The poor guy can only “fall asleep” and wait for the owner of the site to lose his vigilance.
What to do with the harvest
At least once, each of us ate a “spotted” pear and a “shelled” gooseberry. They didn't poison anyone, of course. But their taste is much worse than that of healthy fruits. In addition, the amount of vitamins, organic acids and biologically active compounds in berries from an infected plant is reduced. That is, they become not only not tasty, but also useless. So the question arises - why eat them then?
Brown spot
Brown spotting appears in May - early June as light olive spots that are barely noticeable. Then they turn yellow or brown, and a gray or greenish-brown coating appears on the underside of the leaf, in which spores ripen, ready to spread over a long distance at the slightest breeze. Brown spot only on some crops spreads to shoots and fruits. But due to the fact that the affected leaves die, impairing the photosynthesis of the entire plant, it begins to lag in growth and can no longer fully bear fruit.
Such signs can be found on various garden crops. Moreover, different cultures affected by different types of fungus. But since they all have the same symptoms and similar methods of control, they are often combined under the same name “brown spot”.
The pathogen and its “victims”
Cladosporium fulvum is a fungus that most often affects tomatoes and cucumbers. Moreover, not only the leaves of cucumbers are damaged, but also the tops and fruits. Sometimes found on peonies. Cladosporiosis at the first stage manifests itself in light, irregularly shaped spots on the outside of the leaf. Then a brown or grayish coating appears on the underside. The leaves begin to dry and curl, but do not fall off. The disease most often develops in closed ground conditions, when the temperature in the greenhouse is kept at 20-25°C and humidity is 90%.
The Marssonina fungus affects strawberries, nuts, poplars, and birches. If on ornamental plants only the appearance suffers from marsoniosis, then having “settled” on nuts it affects leaves, shoots, flowers and fruits. This disease is a real scourge that can destroy the harvest of large plantations. This fungus is no less dangerous for strawberries, since it attacks the leaves so severely that the plant simply dies. The main condition for the development of marsoniosis is very high humidity.
The Phyllosticta mushroom has taken a liking to the foliage of raspberries, apples, pears, chestnuts, rowan, elm and maple. Phylosticosis can also occur on indoor plants(ficus, ivy, palm trees). Because of this fungus, chestnuts are left without leaves in July or early August. On fruit crops it also appears as scab.
Preparations against brown spot
At the first signs of disease on tomatoes and cucumbers, treat with Barrier (8 g per 10 liters of water). The beds are sprayed again after 10 days. If there is no such drug, you can use any copper-based product.
For strawberries infected with brown spot, the drug Euparen or Gamair is suitable. They spray the garden bed before flowering and after harvesting. Horus, Ridomil, Ordan, Bravo are used as a preventive measure against marsoniosis.
To save the nut harvest, trees are sprayed with a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture before sap flow begins. Then, as the leaves begin to grow, they are treated twice with an interval of 10 days with a 1% solution.
Bordeaux mixture is also effective in the fight against phyllosticosis. It is used 2-3 times per season.
Roses suffering from brown spot are treated 2-3 times per season with a 3% solution of copper sulfate or the preparations Zineb and Benlat.
Folk remedies
You can try to cope with brown spotting traditional methods using the following recipes:
- Add 300 g of ash to 10 liters of water and boil. Water the plants with this decoction every other day, alternating with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
- Grind 0.5 kg of peeled garlic, mix with 10 liters of water, leave for a day and spray on diseased plants.
These remedies can be used in the early stages of the disease or as a preventive measure.
Preventive actions
To avoid brown spotting, you need to adhere to the following simple rules:
- choose resistant varieties;
- before sowing, soak the seeds in a fungicide solution;
- purchase only healthy planting material;
- ensure good air exchange (do not plant plants close, pick off the lower leaves of tomatoes, ventilate the greenhouse);
- avoid accumulation of moisture on the leaves (water at the root and only warm water in the morning);
- after harvesting, remove and burn tops, affected leaves and shoots;
- treat the greenhouse and garden tools with disinfectants;
- do not use fresh manure and compost (any pathogenic fungi actively develop in this environment).
Danger in fruits
Of course, no one will eat nuts that have rotted from marsoniosis. But apples and pears, when they are affected by phyllostictosis, only lose their appearance and do not affect human health, so you can peel off the skin and eat the pulp. If there are enough undamaged fruits, damaged ones can be fed to the bird.
Under no circumstances should fruits with spots be placed on compost!
Dry spotting
This disease harms not only the foliage, but also the fruits. Under particularly favorable conditions, the disease can reduce yields by 50%. Initially, dry spotting appears as dark spots, different sizes on the leaves. Then the leaf begins to turn yellow and dry out. On the affected fruits, black spots can be observed, under which rot is hidden.
Who suffers from dry spotting?
Potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, cabbage are the favorite crops for this disease. Among fruit crops, dry spotting causes the greatest damage to grapes. Apple trees can also be damaged.
Cause of the disease
The causative agent of dry spotting is the fungus Alternaria solani. Hence the name of the disease - Alternaria.
The best conditions for this fungus are a temperature of 26°C and high humidity. It spreads using mycelium and conidia, which are carried through the air. Infection can also occur through soil and planting material. Mostly sick and weakened plants are affected.
Drugs against Alternaria
Most fungicides can suppress the development of Alternaria blight. You can use Ridomil, Quadris, Polyram. If you have copper sulfate on hand, then for spraying you can prepare a solution of 10 liters of water, 200 g of copper sulfate and soap shavings. If you need to spray plants at the fruiting stage, use biological preparations Trichodermin, Baktofit, Planriz. It is also used at the beginning of the growing season for preventive purposes.
Treatment is carried out at intervals of 10-14 days until signs of the disease completely disappear.
Folk remedies
Dairy products have repeatedly proven their effectiveness in the fight for harvest. In addition, whey and milk increase the immunity of plants, making them less susceptible to pathogenic fungi.
The following solutions are prepared for spraying vegetable beds:
- add 15 drops of iodine and 0.5 liters of low-fat milk to 5 liters of water;
- 1 liter of whey is stirred in 10 liters of water.
The key to health is prevention
Dry spotting is a fungal disease, so the preventive measures described above will also protect plants from Alternaria blight.
The only peculiarity is that this fungus attacks weak plants. Therefore, it is necessary to observe the agricultural practices of the crops grown as much as possible and monitor the fertility of the soil. It will not be superfluous to preventive measures Oh, treat the beds with Immunocyte a couple of times a season. For this purpose 1 tab. crushed and dissolved in 2 liters of water.
Eating diseased fruits
Vegetables and fruits damaged by alterniosis become unfit for consumption. With slight damage, they lose their taste. For example, tomatoes may remain tasteless or become bitter. In more advanced cases, rot develops on the fruits, which is hazardous to health.
Black spot caused by fungi
Black spot is caused by several fungi that attack different plants. But the symptoms of the disease are not much different. Dark brown, almost black spots with a light center or edge appear on the foliage. Damaged tissues swell. The disease affects stems and shoots. The plant weakens, sheds its leaves, refuses to bloom, and damaged shoots die. Without treatment, the bush may die.
Diseased crops
Black spot affects roses, lilacs, and grapes. And if the appearance of ornamental shrubs suffers, then for grapes black spot is a serious threat.
Black, necrotic, oval-shaped spots appear in June on young shoots. Over time, the affected areas become covered with cork tissue, the leaves dry out and the shoots die. One-year-old wood turns grayish. The berries on the affected bushes acquire a purple tint and an unpleasant aftertaste.
Causative agents of black spotting
Grapes are affected by the fungus Phomopsis viticola. The disease is called Phomopsis or Escoriosis. Fungal spores are carried by wind and insects. They germinate in humid conditions. Plants get inside through damage to the bark and stomata. Phomopsis weakens the bush, reduces its winter hardiness, and after 5-6 years of uncontrolled development, the disease kills the bush.
Black spot on roses is caused by the fungus Marssonina rosae. The fungus overwinters in the soil and on plant debris. The fungus progresses during periods of low temperatures and frequent rains. Most often, bushes that suffer from a lack of potassium get sick.
Drugs for treatment
The Phomopsis fungus spreads deep into tissues, so contact fungicides are not suitable for controlling it. It is necessary to use systemic preparations aimed at long-term plant protection.
If diseased shoots were found on the bushes last summer, then the summer season should begin by spraying the grapes with DNOC or Nitrafen. The procedure is carried out as soon as the kidneys begin to swell. These are potent, toxic agents, so they should not be used on green leaves and fruits.
In the summer months, after prolonged rains or frequent dew, preventive spraying drugs Euparen, Captan, Maxim.
At the first signs of black spot on roses, the damaged foliage is removed and the bushes begin to be sprayed with fungicides (Skor, Topaz, Fundazol). Treatment is carried out every 10 days until new spots stop appearing. It is recommended to spill the soil around the bushes with Fitosporin. This is a biological drug that does not destroy beneficial microorganisms.
In the fall, before covering the roses, you need to free the bushes from leaves and spray them with a 3% solution of iron sulfate.
Folk methods of struggle
Decoctions of citrus fruits and herbs do not help against black spotting. Garlic and onion products turned out to be more effective.
To do this, bring 40 g of husk to a boil and let it brew for 8 hours. The resulting solution is poured onto the soil around the roses.
To spray the bushes, prepare a solution of 1 ml of iodine and 400 ml of water.
Preventive measures
If you follow just a few rules when growing grapes, you can minimize the likelihood of the vine becoming infected with black spot.
It is necessary to plant varieties resistant to fungal diseases. In the fall, before covering the bushes, be sure to remove shoots with any kind of damage or stains. In the spring, tie up the vines as early as possible, preventing them from falling to the ground. Regularly feed the bushes with fertilizers high in boron and zinc.
To prevent roses from getting sick, in the spring, before the sap begins to flow, all damaged shoots are removed and preventative spraying is carried out with iron sulfate. To keep roses strong, they are fertilized with organic and mineral fertilizers. And be sure to alternate root and foliar feeding.
Danger of black spot
The insidiousness of escoriosis is that this disease is considered “chronic”. If many fungal diseases, if plants are treated with drugs and kept in suitable conditions and “go away” during the season, then escoriosis (phomopsis) will have to be fought for more than one season, literally winning back every vine and grape tassel. Especially if you remember that this disease seriously affects berries, making them unsuitable for consumption.
Bacterial black spot
Spots on leaves caused by bacteria, as a rule, do not cause significant harm, but some of them can still harm the crop.
Affected crops
The most “malicious” bacterium affects tomatoes and peppers. Watery spots 1-2 mm in size first appear on tomatoes, then they “spread” along the leaves, stems and petioles. Over time, these spots turn yellow. Convex black spots with a watery edge first appear on the fruits, and then quickly rotting ulcers form in these places.
On pepper, the same watery spots are located along the veins and due to this they acquire an angular shape. Similar ulcers appear on the fruits.
The first signs of infection appear after 2-5 days, and after a couple of weeks the disease can be detected throughout the entire garden bed.
The causative agent of the disease
Tomatoes and peppers are affected by the same bacterium - Xanthomonas vesicatoria. Most often, young, immature plants and seedlings are affected. Infection occurs through stomata and any mechanical damage. The bacteria begins to actively develop at an air humidity of 70% and a temperature of 25°C. At lower temperatures, its development slows down, but resumes with the return of favorable conditions.
The bacterium successfully overwinters on seeds and plant debris. Moreover, it has been noticed that if the area is carefully removed and the bacteria of the food source are not left behind, then it dies after 5 days.
Drugs for protection
To exclude infection through diseased seed material, soak the seeds. For these purposes, use a solution of trisodium phosphate (12 g per 100 ml of water). The seeds are soaked for 1 hour and then washed under running water. The drug Planriz kills not only bacteria preserved on the membrane, but also intraseminal infections. The seeds are kept in it for 6 hours.
Unfortunately, it is almost impossible to save an infected plant. Therefore, to prevent infection, preventive spraying is carried out. Seedlings can be periodically irrigated with Fitosporin, Baktofit, Planriz. After planting in the ground, young plants are sprayed with Fitolavin.
Folk remedies
Those who do not use chemicals when growing vegetables can use a weak solution of potassium permanganate to treat the seeds, in which the seeds are kept for 30 minutes. Or soak the seeds in hot water at a temperature of 60°C. Heat treatment is carried out for 20 minutes.
Potassium permanganate is also suitable for disinfecting seedlings. Many experienced gardeners use a whey solution (0.5 liters per 10 liters of water).
Preventive actions
In order not to grieve over a lost harvest, it is important to remember the following:
- Solanaceae can be returned to the garden after 3 years;
- use seeds only from healthy plants;
- it is necessary to carry out pre-sowing treatment;
- provide optimal growing conditions (strong plants are less susceptible to “attacks” of fungi and bacteria);
- thoroughly remove all plant debris;
- if infected plants are found in the greenhouse, the soil must be replaced.
Damage from bacteria
If you do not follow preventive measures when growing tomatoes and peppers, you can lose most of the harvest. Bacterial black spot develops very quickly.
If the area is infected, you need to collect even unripe fruits as quickly as possible (they will ripen at home). Damaged fruits with signs of rot become watery, bitter and unsuitable for consumption.
Bacteria, viruses, fungi - it doesn’t matter what became the source of the spotting. Diseases that manifest themselves in the form of spots cause enormous harm and in any case, infected plants should not be left without treatment.
If black spotting forms on the tree, the leaves begin to turn black and fall off, and there is also a general weakening of the chestnut, slow growth and a decrease in the number of flowers.
In order to get rid of spotting once and for all, you first need to remove and burn all affected foliage, dig up the tree trunk circle and carry out sanitary pruning.
Powdery mildew
- hot weather, sharp changes temperature and humidity have a positive effect on the reproduction of fungal spores;
- may also be the cause excess nitrogen fertilizers or lack of potassium and phosphorus supplements.
Powdery mildew covers the surface of the leaf and appears as a gray-white coating, which is mycelium. Also characterized by the presence of dark brown balls (fungal spores). Over time, the plaque only becomes thicker and end result the leaf turns brown and falls off.
Powdery mildew is spreading by air, infection is also possible through water or through direct contact of two trees. Therefore, it is very important to protect healthy plants from infection.
The fight against powdery mildew should begin by removing the affected leaves and burning them. It is also necessary to timely fertilize the chestnut tree with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. The wood is then treated with the following means:
- Fungicides Bayleton, Topaz, Zato, Topsin, Fundazol, Skor, etc.;
- Biofungicides Fitosporin-m, Gamair, Planriz, etc.;
- A product made from 500 grams of ash poured into a liter of water is also effective. The mixture is infused for 2 days, then 5 grams diluted in water are added laundry soap and carry out the treatment, the procedure is repeated after a week;
- Experienced gardeners recommend spraying the chestnut with an infusion of weeds and water, which is prepared in a ratio of 1 to 2.
All treatments should be carried out only in the evening to avoid sunburn.
Necrosis
Necrosis occurs when the tree receives a burn that can be caused by both scorching rays of the sun and severe frosts. Mechanical damage may also be the cause.
| Stem necrosis | It can appear both on the branches and on the trunk of the tree, while the bark begins to crack and over time, cancerous wounds and small seals (2-3 millimeters in diameter) appear, the color of which can range from soft pink to dark brown. | It is worth remembering that necrosis is not dangerous for an adult plant and after several procedures the disease disappears. But a young chestnut tree can die from such a disease. For the fastest possible recovery, you need to use a sharp garden knife to clean the damaged area, treat it with a disinfectant and cover the wound with garden varnish. You can also spray the chestnut with Brodka liquid or fungicides. |
|---|---|---|
| Phomopsis necrosis | Such necrosis is dangerous because it is very difficult to recognize in the initial stages. The course of the disease begins with harmful fungi settling under the bark, then the bark cracks and many small black tubercles can be seen under it. | |
| Septomyx necrosis | The color of the bark becomes gray-white, and in its splits you can see black tubercles, which indicate the presence of a harmful fungus. |
To avoid the appearance of necrosis on the chestnut you need to adhere to one simple rule, namely, whitewash the wood at the beginning of spring and at the end of autumn. This product will protect the bark from both frost and heat.
Rot
Another problem with chestnut trees is rot, which affects various parts of the plant.
| Root rot | The disease is dangerous because if measures are not taken to treat the tree in time, it can dry out and die. Rooting of the root system can be caused by soil pollution, large amounts of precipitation and the proximity of groundwater. In addition to the roots, such rot can rise up the tree trunk (to a height of no more than 2 meters). | If rot has formed on the trunk or roots of a tree, it is no longer possible to get rid of it. Damaged chestnut trees are cut down, stumps are uprooted and all wood is completely burned. As preventive measures, it is necessary to lime the soil and treat it with fungicides (Bayleton, copper sulfate, etc.). |
|---|---|---|
| White stem rot | A white coating with black stripes appears on the tree trunk; the height of the spread of the disease is 3 meters from the beginning of the root system. Most often, aging trees suffer from white rot. | |
| Yellow stem rot | The lower part of the trunk acquires a yellow, sometimes swampy tint, and is characterized by the presence of plaque. | |
| Usually found on tree stumps. The bark becomes dense, brownish in color, and cracks are observed. |
Rot greatly weakens the tree, it becomes lethargic and stunted. and can no longer to the fullest cope with difficult climatic conditions, such as wind, frost, heat, etc.
Pests, what to do and how to fight?
Chestnut trees are often attacked by various pests; scientists count more than 30 species of such insects, some of which are extremely rare.
Pests are usually divided into the following groups:
- Root- the most striking representative is the cockchafer, whose larvae reproduce in the root system, and adult insects feed on the foliage;
- Sucking- Pests of this group feed on the sap of leaves, flowers and young shoots. These insects include thrips, scale insects, aphids and mealyworms;
- Leaf miners- one of the most common and dangerous pests that multiply very quickly and spread to healthy trees. Chestnut moth larvae feed on the plant's foliage;
- Pests that chew on foliage- the elm leaf beetle and elm beetle feed on the pulp of the leaf, leaving holes in it;
- Stem- such pests can be found extremely rarely; their larvae feed on the core of a tree trunk, and adults gnaw through the bark. Such insects include bark beetles, longhorned beetles, etc.
Mining moth
Mining moth is the most dangerous pest of chestnut. The most the main problem The problem is that these insects have not been fully studied, and experts have not developed a formula for a drug that gives 100 percent results. An adult chestnut aphid is a butterfly, measuring 4 millimeters in size with folded wings. The threat is posed by insect larvae; they settle in the foliage, gradually eating it. Such actions lead to premature leaf fall.
Treatment should begin with the removal and disposal of damaged leaves and branches of the tree; it is also worth remembering that larvae can withstand temperatures down to -25 degrees, so chestnuts need to be processed for at least 2 seasons.
The following drugs are used to get rid of insects::
- Special injections, for example, Carbosudfan or Imidachloroprid. Injections should be made with a special gun along the entire diameter of the tree trunk so that the drug is distributed evenly. Such drugs are quite expensive, but they are highly effective;
Such injections pose a danger to human health; it is not recommended to give injections in populated areas and under no circumstances should you eat the fruits of a “poisoned” tree.
- You can also spray chestnut hormonal drug Insegar.
Prevention of diseases, how to treat wood
If the chestnut leaves begin to turn yellow and dry out, this is the first sign of tree disease. To prevent diseases and pests, you need to do the following:
- Regularly inspect the chestnut in order to detect all changes in time;
- Carefully care for young trees, and fertilize regularly And;
- Carry out sanitary pruning of the crown and burn all damaged leaves and branches;
- Formed wounds need to be treated and lubricate with garden varnish;
- In the presence of chronic diseases, during the growing season chestnut is treated with fungicides(drugs are selected according to the diseases);
- Also the mulch should be treated with drugs, which is left under a tree so that insect larvae cannot overwinter there.
The unpretentious chestnut tree, the planting and maintenance of which is practically zero, has found wide application in landscaping parks, squares and city streets. Thanks to its beautiful crown, decorative foliage and attractive flowers, this amazing tree has become one of the most popular park plants.
Origin and where chestnut grows
Scientists believe that the chestnut tree existed in the Tertiary period during the appearance of the first ape-men. In ancient times, the distribution area of this tree was much larger than it is now. It is known that the tree grew in Greenland, North America, Sakhalin and on the subtropical shores of the Mediterranean. The Caucasus and Asia Minor are considered to be the birthplace of the nut.
For the first time, this decorative tree was brought from Istanbul to Europe by the famous botanist Lucluz back in the 15th century. He began to grow it in Vienna from imported nuts. Over time, this beautiful plant began to be used in landscaping, and the fruits began to be fed to livestock. Healing properties Scientists discovered chestnut only in the 20th century.
Currently, wild chestnut can be found in Southern Europe, India, Greece, Albania, Bulgaria, Serbia and the Balkan Peninsula. Chestnut is cultivated on an industrial scale in southern European countries, Japan and China.
Description of the tree
The chestnut is a huge deciduous tree belonging to the beech family. The height of the chestnut tree can sometimes reach 25 meters.
The slender, straight, brown-gray trunk can be up to a meter in diameter. The chestnut root system is quite powerful with a main tap root. The lateral roots are very branched, making the plant quite stable in gusty winds.
The leaves of the chestnut are large and complex, five or seven palmate with a long spine. In summer, the leaves are green, with the onset of autumn they acquire yellow, purple, brown and crimson shades. The green mass of chestnut contains tannins, pectin and vitamin K. It is often used to prepare tinctures and decoctions that are used for various ailments.
Thanks to the large openwork leaves, the crown of the tree is very dense and wide, and has a rounded shape.
The tree looks very beautiful during its flowering. There is probably not a single city resident who has not seen the chestnut blossom. Its huge and fragrant inflorescences look like magic candles, evenly scattered throughout the crown. Pyramidal, spike-shaped inflorescences are from 10 to 35 cm in length, arranged vertically on the tree. The lower part of the inflorescences contains female flowers, and the upper part contains male flowers.
Chestnut flowers are also quite interesting in their structure. Each small flower has a 5-8-membered perianth. Depending on the type of chestnut, the flowers may be white, pink or red. There are about 15 species of this plant in the world. The flowering period also depends on the type of tree. The most common species in our region, horse chestnut and noble, bloom in early May. The chestnut tree is considered an excellent honey plant.
Chestnut fruits are round green boxes (nuts) with several opening doors covered with sharp thorns. Each such nut contains from one to four seeds. The plant begins to bear fruit at the age of 15-25 years.
Noble (real) chestnut nuts can be eaten. Horse chestnut is mainly used in landscaping. It is quite winter-hardy, but does not tolerate prolonged drought. During this period, leaves may dry out and fall off.
Chestnut propagation
In order to grow a high-quality seedling, which can then become a full-fledged and beautiful tree, you should know how to properly propagate a chestnut, taking into account all its natural features.
Traditionally, the chestnut tree is propagated in two ways.
1) Vegetative method of propagation:
- Cuttings;
- By layering;
- Root shoots.
2) Seed propagation method.
The seed method is used more often than others when propagating this plant at home. Propagating chestnuts from seeds is quite simple and does not require additional special knowledge. For this purpose, fallen and fully ripened nuts are used, which must undergo a stratification procedure.
In the fall, you can plant fresh chestnuts directly into the ground; at the planting site, you should mulch the soil with fallen leaves. Then the chestnuts will undergo stratification under natural conditions. In the spring, planted nuts, in most cases, will hatch and begin to grow. The main disadvantage of this method of propagation is rodents, which can eat the seed material in winter if there is a lack of food.
If chestnut is planted in the spring, then the seeds need to undergo pre-sowing stratification. They should be placed in a cool place in damp soil for two to five months. Before planting, the seeds need to be soaked for several days in warm water, changing it daily. Thanks to this procedure, the chestnut skin softens and it is easier for the sprout to break through. After the activities have been completed, chestnuts can be planted in the garden bed. They should be planted no deeper than 8-10 cm at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other.
In February, you can plant chestnuts in prepared containers, and in the spring you can transplant small seedlings into open ground. When replanting, be sure to cut the main root by a third, then the root system will become more powerful in the future and the tree will grow faster.
Young seedlings require constant care. They need to be periodically weeded, loosened, and watered. In the second year, an audit should be carried out and, if necessary, the plantings should be thinned out.
Planting a chestnut tree in a permanent place
In the southern regions, seedlings are planted in a permanent place in the third year, in the middle zone when the seedling reaches five years of age. Due to their low frost resistance, they can be moved to a greenhouse or an unheated room during the cold season.
The chestnut tree grows quite large, so when planting in the ground, it is necessary to take into account that the distance to buildings, fences and other plants should be at least five or seven meters. If the size of the garden plot allows, then it is better to plant it separately from other plants, then the chestnut will eventually become a decoration of your garden. Moreover, almost no grass grows in the shade of the crown of this plant, which contributes to the creation of a recreation area. Quite often you can see how benches, children's sandboxes and swings are set up under the chestnut tree. In the dense shade of its crown it will always be fresh and cool in the heat.
The chestnut tree prefers slightly acidic or neutral soil. It should be well-drained, loose and moderately moist soil, rich in nutrients. It grows well on loams and black soils. When planting chestnuts in clay soil, sand must be added to the planting hole.
This tree can be replanted to a permanent location up to ten years of age. At this time, it grows quite slowly and is not large in size. When transplanting a tree so late, you should make a deep excavation so that most of the root system is preserved, then the tree will take root better and faster in its new location.
Chestnuts should be planted in open ground in the fall or early spring. The planting hole should be prepared spacious and wide, approximately 60 cm in depth and width. You need to fill the hole with nutritious soil, filled with humus and superphosphate. If the soil is quite acidic, it is better to add dolomite flour.
The plant does not tolerate stagnant moisture, which can cause various diseases the root system, and then the entire tree. Therefore, when preparing for planting, it is necessary to consider a drainage system that will remove excess moisture. You can also add a layer of sand about 15-20 cm to the bottom of the planting hole.
Having filled the planting hole with nutritious soil, the plant must be planted on a slight elevation, which subsequently compensates for the subsidence of the ground. The root collar of the chestnut tree should not be buried; it should be located at ground level.
The planted seedling must be watered with several buckets of water and tied to a support, which will help the not yet rooted tree to withstand strong winds. For more successful rooting, watering the tree should be moderate, but daily.
Chestnut tree care
Caring for a tree planted in a permanent place consists of periodic weeding combined with regular loosening of the soil, constant watering and fertilizing.
Mature chestnut trees are stronger and more drought-resistant than young ones, so they require watering only during periods of long absence of rain. Young specimens require constant watering.
As the crown of the tree grows, there is no need to weed the ground around the trunk because the dense foliage does not allow the rest of the plants to develop normally. Periodically, you should loosen the soil in the tree trunk circle and it is advisable to mulch it with wood chips or peat compost. The mulch layer should not exceed 10 cm.
For the correct and beautiful formation of the crown, the chestnut requires pruning, in which diseased and dried branches that appear from the root of the top are removed.
This plant responds well to fertilizing. Immediately after winter, you need to use a mixture of manure and urea solution. In the fall it should be fed with nitroammophoska.
Chestnut is a fairly frost-resistant tree, so only young specimens require shelter for the winter. To do this, the trunk should be wrapped several times in burlap, and the trunk circle should be mulched. If, however, these measures did not help and frost holes appeared, then they should be treated with any antiseptic and covered with garden varnish.
Diseases and pests
Due to the fact that the chestnut tree is practically not susceptible to various diseases and pests, it is very often used in urban landscaping. Quite rarely, this crop is subject to leaf spotting, which indicates an anthracnose disease, fungus or the appearance of powdery mildew. Occasionally, this tree is attacked by pests such as various borers, beetles and bagworms.
To effectively fight chestnut diseases, it should be treated with Bordeaux mixture or the universal fungicide “Fungazol” at the first signs of infection.
Cases of attacks on chestnut plantings by little-studied insects, which began to be called the Balkan or chestnut moth, have become more frequent. It is not known for certain where this moth came from; it was first noticed back in 1985 on the Balkan Peninsula.
Scientists have not yet identified the natural enemies of this type of moth, and there are practically no artificial effective methods of control. The damage that the chestnut moth causes to the plantings of these plants is quite significant. The foliage of an infected chestnut begins to dry out and fall off in mid-summer, and closer to autumn, new young foliage blooms again and the chestnut blooms again. After which the plant does not have time to prepare for the winter period and freezes slightly, and sometimes the entire tree freezes completely.
In order to destroy the moth, a special chemical preparation was developed, which is injected into the tree trunk. The pupae of such moths usually overwinter in fallen leaves, so timely harvesting of leaves is a preventive measure against damage to plantings.
The most dangerous pest is the tick. To prevent its appearance on the chestnut, it is necessary to treat it twice a month with the fungicides “Karbofos” or “Fitover”.
You can also fight diseases and pests of this plant using folk remedies. To treat the affected tree, decoctions of dissected hogweed and black henbane are used.
Watch the video of transplanting annual chestnuts
People have known about the healing effects of chestnuts since ancient times. This is a small genus of spreading trees native to the southern regions. The fruits of the plant are endowed with a colossal list of useful compounds and elements that few people are aware of. People are accustomed to eating them and preparing sweet desserts from nutritious nuts, without even realizing their healing power. Scientists know thoroughly that all parts of this amazing tree are endowed with a huge bouquet of useful ingredients.
Fruits, flowers, seeds, bark and leaves are widely used in alternative medicine. Official science has proven the therapeutic significance of all components. In this material, space is given to green leaves bordering the crown of the tree. You will learn for yourself useful information about properties, applications, and also learn how to prepare healing decoctions.
What do chestnut leaves look like and when to collect them?
Biologists know over 30 varieties of populations. The most popular are the sowing ones, suitable for consumption. Each subspecies differs in fruiting and trunk height. Healers often use it for medicinal needs. It can be distinguished by its oblong, slightly pointed leaves, 25 cm long.
During the blooming period they become rich red. Chestnut leaves turn bright yellow in autumn. From August to September, experienced healers begin to reap the “harvest.” The raw materials are laid out in an even layer on a fabric surface, periodically turned over for the first few days to dry evenly. Then they are transferred to containers and stored for 12 months.
Components
Chestnut leaves are endowed with amazing substances that improve human health. Experts have identified triterpene compositions that play a key role in metabolic processes, tannins necessary for the body to fight free radicals. Pectin substances have been discovered that help eliminate toxins and heavy metals. One cannot fail to mention flavonoids: they have a positive effect on the enzyme system. They abound in plant glucose, organic acids, lecithin, and a wide range of vitamins and microelements.
Chestnut leaves in folk medicine: a pantry of health for humans
The plant is widely appreciated for its taste and healing powers. The medicinal abilities of parts of the tree are used by folk doctors around the world. Chestnut fruits and leaves have the following properties:
- antitussive;
- astringent;
- diuretic;
- anti-inflammatory;
- wound healing;
- antipyretic.
Such an extensive list useful action due to the presence of a vitamin-mineral complex. Official pharmaceuticals have recognized that the plant can cure a number of diseases. In pharmacy chains you can find a lot of drugs based on chestnut leaves. Extracts and decoctions effectively relieve swelling and stabilize arterial pressure.
Such drugs exhibit analgesic effects. Infusions bring the condition back to normal intestinal tract. They also thin the blood, make the walls of blood vessels more elastic, and increase their permeability. Prevents the formation of cholesterol plaques. used to combat respiratory pathologies: stops the cough reflex, improves the viscosity of sputum. The drugs help stop uterine bleeding.
For varicose veins
Traditional healers use chestnut leaves in therapy varicose veins veins Tea is prepared from one part of crushed dry raw materials and 15 parts of boiling water. The solution is infused in a thermos for at least 4-5 hours. Take 400 ml per day orally in 2-3 doses. The product strengthens capillaries and prevents the occurrence of lumps and plaques.
Decoction for uterine bleeding
You will need 15 grams of dry leaves, which must be thoroughly chopped. Stir the raw materials in a glass hot water(not chlorinated), boil for 10-15 minutes. Cool to room temperature, filter through a strainer. Drink 10 ml 5-6 times a day.
For warts (wen)
The following infusion has an effective therapeutic effect: take 10 liters of chestnut leaves, pour boiling water to the top and leave for 24 hours. Strain the solution, pour it into the bath and soak for 15 minutes. Perform procedures every two days. Course - 14 days.
For cough and whooping cough
For 10 grams of dry raw materials (pre-grind), take a glass of hot water. Bring to a boil, leave for an hour. Filter and drink the day before. Or consume a large spoon three times a day for two weeks.
Before taking chestnut leaves, you should consult a specialist. The plant is contraindicated in case of individual intolerance.
Family: beech (Fagaceae).
Motherland
Various types of chestnut are most widely distributed in the Mediterranean, the Caucasus, East Asia and the Atlantic coast of the North American continent.
Form: tree, bush.
Description
Most representatives of the chestnut genus are tall, deciduous trees. Shrubs and dwarf forms are less common.
The chestnut tree can reach 50 meters in height. Its trunk is covered with thick furrowed brown-brown bark. The root system is powerful and superficial. Short-petioled, dark green, chestnut leaves with jagged edges can have a lanceolate or oblong-oval shape. Chestnut flowers are collected in small balls (dichasia), forming inflorescence-catkins up to 15 cm long. Chestnut fruits are ovoid or spherical nuts in a wooden-skinned brown shell. One plus can contain from one to three fruits.
The genus of chestnuts is not numerous, it has only 10 species, and some of them are described as hybrids. Here are the most common of them:
or Japanese chestnut (C. crenata) - compact, up to 10 meters in height, tree, less often - shrub. Relatively frost-resistant - can tolerate short-term temperature drops down to -25 ° C. It grows quickly and begins to bear fruit earlier than most species. Demanding on air and soil humidity. It has many decorative forms, including:
- weeping - with drooping shoots;
- edible - with large, tasty fruits.
The softest chestnut or Chinese chestnut (C. mollissima) is a plant adapted to high mountain climates. It reaches a height of 20 meters and has a beautiful spreading crown. It begins to bear fruit at the age of 6-8 years. The tree is valued for its decorative properties, and its fruits for their high taste.
Chinkapin
(C. pumila) - a relatively low, up to 15 meters, tree or shrub. The species is resistant to cold and dry soil and is undemanding to soil composition. Relatively resistant to pests and diseases.
Chestnut, or European chestnut (C. sativa) is a tall tree growing up to 35 meters in height. It is demanding on the microclimate, and in favorable conditions it is very durable. It is considered one of the most beautiful deciduous trees due to the majestic shape of the crown and large, spectacular light green leaves, which acquire a pure yellow color in the fall. Decorative forms of this type are numerous and varied, here are some of them:
- pyramidal - with branches directed upward and forming a pyramidal crown;
- split-leaved - leaves with unevenly lobed or jagged edges;
- round-leaved - leaves have a round shape;
- golden spotted – leaves with yellow spots;
- silver-variegated - leaves with white spots;
- golden-edged - with a yellow border along the edge of the leaf;
- silver-edged - with a white border along the edge of the leaf;
- purple - with purple leaves;
- naked - with large, dense, bare, glossy leaves.
Segyu chestnut (C. seguinii) is one of the shortest representatives of the genus, reaching no more than 10 meters in height. It has the shape of a tree or bush. Natural habitat is 1000-1600 meters above sea level.
Growing conditions
Chestnuts are heat-loving and moisture-loving. The ideal conditions for growing chestnuts are regions with a moderately warm, but not hot climate and fairly high air humidity, up to 70%. A large number of precipitation does not harm plants. Most representatives of the genus cannot tolerate prolonged drops in air temperature to -15 °C. Sunny exposure is not for chestnuts; they prefer moderately shaded areas.
Chestnuts are demanding on soil composition: they avoid both calcareous and acidic soils, and do not like clayey and swampy areas. Chestnut grows well on sandstone, gneiss and shale soils.
Application
Chestnut is decorative and expressive in itself, so it often becomes a key object in shaping the appearance of a garden. They look great in single plantings on a patio, near a bench or well. They look impressive when planted with tall chestnut trees that provide thick shade. Chestnuts are widely used in group plantings, and shrubby forms can serve as material for tall ones.
Compositions and mini-arboretums using chestnut trees can be an interesting landscape solution. The plant goes well with almost any plant, but compositions using trees and shrubs, whose foliage in color or texture contrasts with the leaves of the chestnut, are especially advantageous.
Chestnut is a plant that is in demand not only in landscape design. Its wood is a valuable material for making furniture and interior items, and its fruits are used in cooking.
Care
Chestnut is moisture-loving, so it should be provided with regular, fairly abundant watering. The plant responds well to loosening the soil around the trunk; it can be done as needed 2-3 times per season. In autumn, the ground under the chestnut tree is mulched with peat and sawdust from fallen leaves. High-quality chestnut care involves fertilizing, which is carried out in early spring. A mixture of ammonium nitrate, mullein, nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium fertilizers and urea is used as a fertilizer.
Chestnut tolerates pruning well, so forming a spreading, lush crown of growing trees is not difficult. To do this, at the beginning of spring, shortening pruning of the chestnut is performed, cutting off the branches of young plants by ¼ of the length and shortening the top.
Reproduction
The most accessible and effective way to propagate chestnut is by seed.
Chestnut nuts can be sown in open ground in the fall, immediately after ripening. They should be embedded in the soil to a depth of 3-5 cm at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other. In winter, the seeds will undergo a process of natural stratification. For spring sowing of chestnuts, the seeds must be stored all winter at a temperature of + 5-6 ° C, and immediately before sowing, soak in warm water for five days. Sprouted seedlings should be regularly watered, fed, and freed from weeds.
To grow chestnuts, 1-2 year old plants are taken from seedlings. At the same age, chestnut seedlings are transplanted to permanent places. The soil for planting is prepared as follows: the soil removed from the hole is mixed with sand and humus (2:1:1), dolomite flour and slaked lime are added there. The holes are drained with pebbles or crushed stone mixed with sand, the prepared substrate and nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium fertilizer are poured onto the bottom, and filled with water. Then the seedling is placed in the hole, the substrate is added and it is compacted. The neck of the seedling should remain 8-10 cm above the soil level. The seedling is watered generously with warm water.
Diseases and pests
Chestnut is quite resistant to diseases and pests. The main natural enemy of some species is a fungal infection. To combat the problem they use standard means. If the fungus has infected the root system, you will have to get rid of the plant.
Horse chestnut is a perennial plant that is a tree that reaches up to 30 m in height. It is distinguished not only by its beauty, especially during the flowering period, but also by its beneficial properties. Therefore, chestnut is often used in alternative medicine for preparing various medicines. You can see what horse chestnut looks like in the photo.
Description of the plant - photo
Horse chestnut trees can often be found on personal plots or park areas. It is a fairly tall tree with opposite leaves. The shape of the chestnut leaf is pointed with small teeth along the edges. You can see what a horse chestnut leaf looks like in the photo.
How do these trees bloom? This process begins at the end of spring. The flowers are white or pale pink, they form in large erect clusters, reaching 30 cm in length. At the beginning of autumn, the first fruits begin to appear on the tree. They are small round-shaped boxes covered with large thorns. Inside these boxes are irregularly shaped seeds that are brown in color and have a glossy surface. You can see what the horse chestnut fruit looks like in the photo.
Where does this tree grow? Most often it can be found in Russia, Ukraine, Central Asia, and the Caucasus. Greece is considered the birthplace of this plant.
Medicinal properties of chestnut
The fruits, flowers and grass of horse chestnut are actively used in both modern and alternative medicine. This plant is used to eliminate the following ailments:
- Inflammatory processes in the body and swelling. Tinctures based on the plant have anti-inflammatory and anti-edematous effects.
- Thrombosis. Chestnut tree significantly reduces blood clotting and prevents the formation of blood clots. Medicines based on it are also used for uterine bleeding among women.
- Increased acidity gastric juice. The plant normalizes this indicator, making it indispensable for exacerbation of gastritis.
- Impaired functioning of the gallbladder. Chestnut normalizes the secretory function of this organ.
- Cough, bronchitis, bronchial asthma. The plant promotes the removal of sputum, improves general state body.
- Arthrosis, arthritis, gout. Ointments based on such chestnut are removed painful sensations, inflammatory processes that are observed in joint tissues in these diseases.
- High blood pressure. Chestnut is one of the most effective ingredients in treating hypertension with herbal infusions. It also improves the functioning of the cardiovascular system in general.
Due to its anti-inflammatory effect, chestnut fruits are used to prepare ointments and creams for trophic ulcers.
Uses of chestnut
This plant is used in the production of various drugs in modern medicine. You can also prepare medicinal products at home. The most common recipes are:
- Tincture. To prepare this form of medicine you will need 50 g of crushed fruits or flowers of this plant and 0.5 liters of vodka or diluted alcohol. Place the ingredients in a container, cover tightly with a lid and leave to infuse for 3 weeks. After the time has passed, strain the resulting tincture and take 30 drops 3 times a day.
- Infusion of bark. To prepare this remedy you should take 1 tsp. crushed bark chestnut tree, pour in 2 cups of boiling water. Infuse for several hours. Then strain the infusion and consume 2 tbsp. l. 3 times a day. This infusion can also be used to treat skin diseases. For greater effectiveness, it should be boiled for about 15 minutes before infusing.
- Tincture for external use. You should take 300 g of plant fruits, crushed using a meat grinder or blender, along with the peel, and pour in 1 liter of vodka or alcohol. Infuse in a tightly closed container for 1 week. The use of this tincture has a beneficial effect on radiculitis, arthritis, arthrosis, and inflammatory processes in muscle tissue.
- Ointment. You will need 5 tbsp. l. flowers of the plant that should be crushed. Add 0.5 l of refined sunflower or olive oil. Let it cook on low heat for 1 hour. Then strain the prepared mixture, cool slightly and apply to the affected areas of the skin.
- Infusion of fruits. To prepare a remedy for chronic diarrhea or kidney dysfunction, you should take 2 fruits of the plant, chop well and pour 1 glass of boiling water. Leave to brew for 3 hours. After the time has passed, take the medicine 2 tbsp. l. 5 times a day. This decoction is also useful for diseases of the upper respiratory tract caused by inflammatory processes.
In addition to these recipes, the juice of the flowers of this plant is actively used. It can be purchased ready-made in pharmacies.
The difference between horse chestnut and edible chestnut
How to distinguish horse chestnut from an edible plant? There are a number of visual distinctive features of these plants:
- Edible chestnut leaves are not so large; they are pointed at the top.
- The inflorescences of these plants are significantly different. The edible plant blooms with narrow and long catkins.
- The edible chestnut tastes sweeter; as for the second type of plant, it has a bitter aftertaste.
- Horse chestnut usually has one fruit per nut; the edible tree grows mainly with two fruits.
- The skin of the horse chestnut fruit has a bright greenish tint. The edible chestnut is brown in color with a large number of long thorns.
The only similarity between these plants is their fruits. They are glossy and dark brown in color. They are practically the same in shape and size.
Contraindications to the use of the plant
Medicines based on horse chestnut are not suitable for every person, as they have some contraindications. You should avoid using this plant in the following cases:
- regular constipation;
- reduced acidity of gastric juice in chronic gastritis;
- low blood pressure;
- poor blood clotting;
- violation menstrual cycle among women;
- period of pregnancy and breastfeeding.
While taking chestnut tree-based medications, a person may experience nausea or severe heartburn. Therefore, before using them, you must consult your doctor. He will assess the feasibility of this method of influence, and will also suggest the most effective dosage, taking into account the individual characteristics of each patient’s body.
Home " Master Class " Chestnut tree planting and care. Chestnut diseases and how to treat them.
In recent years, at the zenith of summer, our chestnuts are beginning to resemble deep autumn. The leaves first become speckled and then completely turn yellow, wrinkle and finally fall off. People have an apt expression - “they rust.” What's going on?
In the photo: chestnuts, Alexandria, 07/31/2012
According to plant protection inspector Igor Lavrov, the problem of trees is not a disease or radiation, as some people think. Everything is somewhat simpler and more complex at the same time. Chestnut trees are plagued by a small pest - the chestnut leaf miner. The insect moved to Ukraine about eight years ago, approximately from Yugoslavia.
Interestingly, the chestnut moth is a lazy, sedentary insect. According to experts, the pest spread throughout the country with the “help” of trucks. Large trucks brush against overhanging tree branches, knock moths into their bodies or onto their awnings, and carry them onward. And so from tree to tree. Today, chestnuts in all cities of Ukraine suffer from the pest.
Ukrainian scientists have been trying to find an effective and, most importantly, inexpensive remedy for moths for the last few years. The idea was to place sticky traps on each tree, into which the males, attracted by a specific smell, would crawl. Females left without “husbands” would thus not be able to produce offspring.
Another of the proposed methods can be called extremely radical. Cut down all the chestnut trees in the country today, and plant instead of them... again, chestnuts, but modified, with immunity from moths.
There was also a French drug "Kamerkil", but the cost of injection for one tree (pinned under the bark) was 195 hryvnia. (It should be taken into account that, for example, in Alexandria there are more than 8 thousand chestnuts).
It is clear that all these proposals have not found wide application.
And now, a new method has appeared - planting special mushrooms on trees, whose toxin causes moths to stop reproducing. At the same time, mushrooms are safe for the trees themselves, people, animals and birds. Now the know-how is being tested in Kyiv. If the result is positive, then next year Other cities will be able to use the recipe.
First of all, the price is attractive. The cost for one tree is about ten hryvnia. According to Igor Lavrov, he has already held consultations with Stepan Tsapyuk, and he stated that the city will be able to allocate the necessary amount next year.
Well, there is one more very important point. To defeat moths, chestnut leaves must be carefully collected and burned. Last year, the Alexandria utility workers tried to do something in this direction; they raked the leaves for a while, but then abandoned it.
Chestnut is a very beautiful and powerful tree, which also bears useful fruits. One of the main problems of its cultivation is considered to be various diseases and pests. Let's figure out why chestnut leaves become rusty already in the summer and how to deal with it.
Fighting chestnut diseases
One of the most important rules for caring for a tree is its protection from diseases and pests. In no case should you skip preventive procedures, because preventing a disease is much easier than treating it.
But if the tree does get sick, treatment should be started immediately to avoid complications. In addition, some diseases and pests can lead to death or wilting of the chestnut tree.
Leaf spot: why leaves turn brown in summer
Diseases appearing on tree foliage can be found quite often. IN Lately, regardless of the variety of chestnut (regular, horse chestnut, etc.), the leaves begin to turn yellow in mid-summer, and then completely turn rusty in color. Usually, treatment started on time gives good results.
In order to get rid of spotting once and for all, you first need to remove and burn all affected foliage, dig up the tree trunk circle and carry out sanitary pruning.
Powdery mildew
- hot weather, sudden changes in temperature and humidity have a positive effect on the proliferation of fungal spores;
- The cause may also be an excess of nitrogen fertilizers or a lack of potassium and phosphorus fertilizers.
Powdery mildew is spread by air, and infection is also possible through water or through direct contact of two trees. Therefore, it is very important to protect healthy plants from infection.
The fight against powdery mildew should begin by removing the affected leaves and burning them. It is also necessary to timely fertilize the chestnut tree with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. The wood is then treated with the following means:
- Fungicides Bayleton, Topaz, Zato, Topsin, Fundazol, Skor, etc.;
- Biofungicides Fitosporin-m, Gamair, Planriz, etc.;
- A product made from 500 grams of ash poured into a liter of water is also effective. The mixture is infused for 2 days, then 5 grams of laundry soap diluted in water are added and the treatment is carried out, the procedure is repeated a week later;
- Experienced gardeners recommend spraying the chestnut with an infusion of weeds and water, which is prepared in a ratio of 1 to 2.
Necrosis
Necrosis occurs if the tree receives a burn, which can be caused by either scorching rays of the sun or severe frost. Mechanical damage may also be the cause.
To avoid the appearance of necrosis on chestnut, you need to adhere to one simple rule, namely, whitewash the tree in early spring and late autumn. This product will protect the bark from both frost and heat.
Rot
Another problem with chestnut trees is rot, which affects various parts of the plant.
Rot greatly weakens the tree, it becomes lethargic and stunted and can no longer fully cope with severe climatic conditions such as wind, frost, heat, etc.
Pests, what to do and how to fight?
Chestnut trees are often attacked by various pests; scientists count more than 30 species of such insects, some of which are extremely rare.
Pests are usually divided into the following groups:
- Root - the most striking representative is the cockchafer, whose larvae reproduce in the root system, and adult insects feed on foliage;
- Sucking pests of this group feed on the sap of leaves, flowers and young shoots. These insects include thrips, scale insects, aphids and mealyworms;
- Leaf miners are one of the most common and dangerous pests that multiply very quickly and spread to healthy trees. Chestnut moth larvae feed on the plant's foliage;
- Pests that chew on foliage - the elm leaf beetle and the elm beetle - feed on the pulp of the leaf, leaving holes in it;
- Stem pests - such pests can be found extremely rarely; their larvae feed on the core of a tree trunk, and adults gnaw through the bark. Such insects include bark beetles, longhorned beetles, etc.
Mining moth is the most dangerous pest of chestnut. The main problem is that these insects have not been fully studied, and experts have not developed a formula for a drug that gives 100 percent results. An adult chestnut aphid is a butterfly, measuring 4 millimeters in size with folded wings. The threat is posed by insect larvae; they settle in the foliage, gradually eating it. Such actions lead to premature leaf fall.
Treatment should begin with the removal and disposal of damaged leaves and branches of the tree; it is also worth remembering that the larvae can withstand temperatures down to -25 degrees, so chestnuts need to be treated for at least 2 seasons.
To get rid of insects, the following drugs are used:
- Special injections, for example Carbosufan or Imidachloropride. Injections should be made with a special gun along the entire diameter of the tree trunk so that the drug is distributed evenly. Such drugs are quite expensive, but they are highly effective;
- You can also spray chestnut hormonal drug Insegar.
If the chestnut leaves begin to turn yellow and dry out, this is the first sign of tree disease. To prevent the occurrence of diseases and pests, you must do the following:
- Inspect the chestnut regularly in order to detect any changes in time;
- Carefully care for young trees and regularly fertilize them;
- Carry out sanitary pruning of the crown and burn all damaged leaves and branches;
- The resulting wounds must be treated and lubricated with garden pitch;
- In the presence of chronic diseases, during the growing season, chestnut is treated with fungicides (preparations are selected in accordance with the diseases);
- Also, the mulch that is left under the tree should be treated with preparations so that insect larvae cannot overwinter there.
