Climbing cats — a necessary piece of equipment for mountain sports such as ice climbing, mountain tourism, mountaineering, ski mountaineering, drytooling and more.
Present metal structures attached to shoes, designed for movement on ice, firn, compacted snow and rocks.
Directly under the sole of the shoe is the base of the device from which the sharp teeth , so reminiscent of a cat's clawed paws. The essence of the device lies in them.
Construction of climbing cats
Models most often consist of two parts: the front one is attached under the toe of the boot, and the back one under the heel.
They are connected to each other using an adjustable sizing bar.
Both parts have sharp metal teeth. The device is also equipped with a mount for fixing on shoes.
When moving through dense snow, they significantly simplify a person’s movement by redistributing body weight. The sharp tips on which the emphasis is placed simply cut the snow and do not force the athlete to waste energy trampling the path over the entire area of the boot. When climbing icy rocks, the need to use climbing crampons is obvious - the “claws” help to cling to the ice, preventing the climber from falling.
Reference. Widely used in the past solid platform models, but now this is very rare, since modern ones are not inferior to them in stability, but they weigh less and allow you to adjust the size.
Connecting strips
They can be straight or curved and have different quantities holes and also differ in length. They are usually made of steel. Using a bar You can adjust the size of this equipment, thereby adapting it to any shoe, which is a significant advantage of two-piece models over platform ones.
Antipodlip
This is special backing placed under both parts cats. It is most often made from durable rubber, latex or plastic. Its task is to prevent snow from sticking on the crampon, which can be dangerous on steep climbs. Snow stuck to your boots reduces traction and increases the risk of slipping.
Photo 1. Plastic anti-clip for climbing crampons. Prevents snow from sticking to the device.
Types of teeth
There are two types based on the type of teeth cats.
- In the first, the front teeth are located vertically, sharply sharpened, usually have jagged edges. These cats are meant to be for climbing on steep slopes or overhanging ice, in a word, where a long ascent on the front teeth is expected. You can’t do without such models on ice and mixed routes. They are more universal in use. The main disadvantages, in comparison with other types, are greater weight and high price due to wide range use.
- The second ones have horizontal teeth. This is the least aggressive type, more suitable for movement on firn, snow. Convenient for summer tourism. If you don’t plan to climb ice walls and sheer rocks, then cats with horizontal teeth- the optimal choice. They will save the tourist’s pocket and will not put much strain on the legs, as they are light in weight.
Fastening methods
There are three types of fastening climbing cats: automatic, soft and semi-automatic.
Automatic fastening consists of a rigid bracket in the front and an adjustable “frog” in the back. This kind convenient, reliable in terms of fixation, and therefore safe.
Soft mount consists of a strap and elastic wraps. Universal model - can be used with any type of shoes, but hence the main disadvantage - unreliability of fixation on the shoe. It also takes a lot of skill to tie it tightly.
Semi-automatic fastening combines the characteristics of the previous two: a tethered wrap in the front and a “frog” in the back. These crampons are suitable for boots with two welts or with one back welt.
Important! Automatic fastenings are suitable exclusively under boots with two welts.
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How to make this design with your own hands
IN Soviet years There were problems with mountain equipment, which forced many to make it themselves from improvised materials. And now some athletes, who do not have the opportunity to purchase professional equipment, make it themselves. Masters forge themselves full-fledged massive cats, usually of steel, and attach it to mountain boots.
Some people buy fasteners and teeth separately, and with the help of special screws and tools fixes them on the same climbing shoes (there are also options for attaching them to hockey skates, which, according to many, is very convenient). The oldest and most popular method in the past of making cats at home is a metal plate with small teeth that attaches under the front of the boot.
The structure is supported by steel rings, through which a thick canvas belt is passed, securing the device to the boot.
Photo 2. DIY climbing crampons. The design is attached to the boot.
Is it worth it?
Currently the risk of using “homemade products” is completely unjustified. Not only will the creation process take a lot of time and effort, making safe, tight-fitting equipment yourself is very difficult. The likelihood of making a product of insufficient quality is high, and any slightly incorrectly tightened screw on steep ice can cost a climber his life.
Attention! Mountain gear is not something you should skimp on. When it comes to risks to life and health, The main thing is to protect yourself as much as possible.
Poorly made device has a chance to fly off at the most inopportune moment or damage the shoes, injuring the climber’s legs. Tourist and sports stores offer a wide range of products different types and models of climbing cats - it’s easy to choose equipment to suit any pocket.
Crampon They represent special equipment that is impossible to do without in mountain tourism, mountaineering, ice climbing, ski mountaineering and other types of extreme sports.
Each model has its own unique features and differences that are most effective in a specific sports hobby. That is why it is necessary to purchase climbing crampons taking into account their future functional tasks and requirements.
- How to choose the right one and what types are there?
Before you start choosing a future purchase that will become effective and reliable protection from falling, you need, first of all, to buy boots. And only after this you can begin to select the most suitable model of climbing crampons.
Although some climbers prefer to buy crampons first, and only then go shopping for boots. However, the first option, according to professionals, is more correct, since boots are the key to a successful extreme event.
Types of climbing cats:
- Soft mount models
They are the most versatile, as they are ideal for putting on boots of any type and shape, and, if necessary, can even be put on sneakers. As for fastening, in most cases it is made in the form of special plastic brackets, which are fixed with the foot on the shoe.
But still like that climbing crampons have their own negative sides. Firstly, the process of putting it on takes a lot of time and effort, which is unacceptable, for example, at some pass where there is a raging strong wind and frost.
In such an environment, the ease and speed of putting on crampons can save a person's life. Secondly, the service life of such models is relatively short due to the soft fastening, which begins to stretch over time, therefore, the crampon will simply begin to dangle from the shoe, which is unsafe.
- Rigid mount options
These crampons are safer and more comfortable, but they are not suitable for all types of boots. For them it is necessary to select special shoes, which have the so-called. welts in the front and back. They are used as fasteners to which the crampon's "back frog" and its front brace are attached.
- Models with semi-rigid mounts
Data cats for tourism and mountaineering are a cross between hard and soft types of fastening. Their back part is made more rigid, the “frog” is mainly used, while the front part is soft.
In addition to the type of fastening, when choosing a purchase you should also pay attention to the nature of the direct connection between the back and front of the model. To ensure that the climbing crampon can be easily and quickly put on in any conditions, it is made of a front part, which serves as the toe for the shoe, and also a back part, in which the heel of the boot is fixed.
Not so long ago, options with a hinged and soft connection were especially popular, but their popularity did not last long and such models can no longer be found on the shelves of specialized stores. Today, the leader position is occupied by platform-type products, which are indispensable in passing fairly complex ice routes.
In the front of these crampons there are vertical teeth that are capable of providing a strong cut into the ice. Their platform is made quite rigid, which provides reliable support for the foot. Such models are made of two parts, fixed with high-strength threaded connections.
But it is still worth noting that this option of crampons is intended only for professional climbers who deal with long, complex and very dangerous routes. Another option for climbing crampons are semi-rigid types, which today are more affordable and in demand.
In these models, both parts are connected by a special plate made of metal. They are equipped with a large number of holes designed to adjust them to absolutely any size of boots. The design of such products is characterized by a combination of a high degree of stability, comfort and softness.
Their teeth are in a horizontal position, which makes these crampons versatile and suitable for almost any surface, from snow to firn and soft ice.
How to properly care?
Climbing crampons can significantly simplify the process of climbing mixed or snowy routes. However, in order for them not to lose their structural and functional qualities over time, it is necessary to properly care for them so that they remain in perfect condition.
- Fastenings
Before using the cat for its intended purpose, it is important to check the fastenings. Under no circumstances should they dangle; otherwise, it is better to replace damaged rivets or bolts. You also need to check the condition of the buckles/straps; they should not be worn.
- Teeth
These elements of climbing crampons are a guarantee of safe climbing, so they need to be systematically sharpened. It is imperative to carry out this event just before the hike. To do this, you need to take a hand saw or file, but only a flat one, and sharpen towards the sharp end of the file.
Under no circumstances should you use a sharpening machine, as it can heat the metal surface of the teeth, thereby disrupting their elasticity and hardness. Next you need to sharpen the tip and edges of the teeth, but this must be done very carefully so as not to bend the line running to the tip from the frame. Bent teeth must be straightened.
As for the proper storage of climbing crampons, before putting them in the closet, you need to dry and wipe the products. The thing is that moisture has a detrimental effect on rusting steel, from which most modern models are made. It would also be a good idea to lubricate the metal elements with a small amount of oil. Naturally, cats need to be stored in a dry place.
Transportation rules
Undoubtedly, the sharpened and durable teeth are very effective on thin ice and allow you to move on it without any problems. However, they can also cause harm if they are transported or carried incorrectly, so if the cats are not on their feet, then you can protect yourself and others in two ways:
- use a reinforced special bag made of durable nylon, which is almost impossible to make holes;
- use rubber tips, which are inexpensive and do not take up much space.
To sum it up...
Climbing cats - the best option for lovers of extreme pastimes who want to protect themselves on dangerous routes. In addition, everyone will be able to choose the most suitable model for themselves, which will serve “faithfully” for many years, naturally, subject to proper use and care.
Gear Reviews
Climbing cats are necessary equipment for many types of mountain sports, such as mountaineering, mountain tourism, ski mountaineering, ice climbing, etc. However, for each specific sport there are special models of cats designed specifically for it. And it is very important to choose the right model that suits your requirements and tasks.
There are two fundamentally different approaches to choosing climbing cats:
- the first involves first buying boots, and then selecting crampons to match them;
- the second is, on the contrary, buying crampons and only then selecting appropriate shoes.
Both of these approaches have the right to life, but the first one must still be recognized as more correct. Since the primary ones are still the boots. After all, we spend a lot of time in boots, and the success of the entire event depends on their correct selection. Let's assume that you already have boots that suit you in all respects, and you come to the store to choose and buy crampons for these boots. And here you are faced with such a huge number different types and models of these “animals” that you fall into a slight stupor for a long time :)
Let's figure out what's what...
According to the method of attaching crampons to boots, all crampons can be divided into crampons with soft, hard and semi-rigid (or semi-soft :)) fastenings.
Crampons with soft mounts the most versatile - they can be worn on any boots or even sneakers, if so desired. Soft fastenings most often take the form of plastic brackets that are secured to the boot with a strap. These crampons are represented by Petzl Charlet VASAK FL, IRVIS FL, Grivel G12 New Classic, G10 New Classic, Air Tech New Classic, Black Diamond Contact Strap, CAMP C12 NB, C10 NB, XLC 490, Stalker Newmatic and others.
However, this method of fastening also has its disadvantages. Firstly, crampons with soft fastenings take longer and are more difficult to put on. And if you have to put on crampons somewhere on a pass in severe frost and strong wind, then the speed and ease of putting on crampons plays an important role. Secondly, no matter how carefully you adjust the size of the crampons to the size of the boots, and no matter how much you tighten the straps of the fastenings, after some time the fastening still weakens and the crampons begin to dangle a little on the boots. I must say that this does not bring much joy when climbing an ice slope, for example. It also happens that poorly secured crampons fly off your shoes and, as a rule, at the most inopportune moment - and this is not only inconvenient, but also simply extremely life-threatening.
In this plan cats with rigid mounts much more convenient and safe. Such crampons are not worn on any boots, but only on boots that have the so-called. welts in the front and back, to which the crampon fastening elements cling - a bracket in the front and a “frog” in the back. Having adjusted such fastenings once, in the future you will be able to put on your crampons in any situation in a matter of seconds. This type of cat is represented by the Petzl Charlet VASAK LLF, SARKEN SL, M10, IRVIS SL, CAMP XLC 390 Fast, C12 F models.
An intermediate position between cats with soft and hard fastenings is occupied by crampons with semi-rigid mounts. They have a soft front part of the mount, and a hard back part (usually a “frog”). This type is represented by cats Petzl Charlet VASAK LL, IRVIS LL, IRVIS SPL, SARKEN LL, Grivel G14 New Matic, G12 New Matic, G10 New Matic, Air Tech New Matic, Air Tech Light New Matic, CAMP XLC Nanotech, C12 NBF, Stalker Universal.
In addition to the method of attachment to boots, cats also differ in the nature of the connection between the front and back parts. So that crampons can be put on boots of any size, they are made of two parts - the front (under the toe of the boot) and the back (under the heel). According to the method of their connection, cats are semi-rigid and rigid (platform). Some time ago, cats with a soft or articulated joint were also common, but now you will no longer see such cats, so we will not describe them here.
The need to create platform cats appeared in connection with the increase in the technical complexity of ice routes. Previously, in order to climb a steep ice wall, climbers had to cut steps for a long time and tediously. Thanks to the rigid platform crampons, it became possible to navigate steep ice sections on the front teeth. Typically, platform crampons have vertical front teeth for greater strength, and a rigid platform gives reliable support foot Platform cats also consist of two parts, which slide relative to each other and are fixed with threaded connections. Almost any cat manufacturer in model range there is at least one model of platform cats - for example, Grivel 2F New Matic.
However, rigid platform cats are, after all, single models for a narrow circle of users. The most widely used now semi-rigid cats. In these crampons, the front and back parts are connected to each other by a metal plate with many holes to adjust the crampon to your shoe size (like a regular belt). This design combines convenience soft cats and the stability of hard ones and allows the use of semi-hard crampons both on simple firn slopes and on more complex ice ones. As a rule, on semi-rigid crampons, the front teeth are located horizontally - precisely because they are designed for very wide use, and it is much easier to move along an ice-snow, snow or firn slope in such crampons, because the vertical front teeth will simply cut through soft ice or firn. The exceptions are the Petzl Charlet M10 and Grivel G14 cats - these models have two front teeth located vertically, in addition, it is possible to replace the two front teeth with one tooth.
The girls are taking them on a hike,
Dad, mom and Siamese cat."
(With)
1.
2.
I think it's obvious that the first way is better
I. By type of fastening:
II. By connection type:
with horizontal teeth
with vertical teeth 
Antipodlips
Shipping
Care and operation
Sharpening teeth
Storage
Example such cats.
“Instead of sandals, a pair of tights
The girls are taking them on a hike,
And they look at them with wild eyes
Dad, mom and Siamese cat."
(With)
Climbing crampons are one of the most important pieces of equipment for mountain hiking and mountaineering. They are invariably used by both climbers and mountain tourists.
There are two approaches to choosing cats:
1.
Buying boots, then selecting crampons for them
2.
Buying crampons, then selecting boots for them
I think it's obvious that the first way is better after all, shoes are much more difficult to choose. Having bought crampons first, we increase the requirements for choosing boots.
So, you decided to do everything “by science” - first you bought boots, and then took them to the store to buy climbing crampons. This is where you will encounter a huge variety of these “animals”. Let's find out!
Cats can be classified in different ways. Below we have classified cats according to the following criteria: by type of fastening, by type of connection, by type of front teeth.
I. By type of fastening:
II. By connection type:
with horizontal teeth— for classic mountaineering and mountain tourism, “horizontal” mountaineering crampons are quite sufficient. "Horizontal" crampons work well on snow, firn, summer ice, rocks. If your plans do not include ice climbing and climbing long ice walls, crampons with horizontal front teeth are perfect for you.
with vertical teeth— designed primarily for work on steep, including steep or overhanging hard ice. Crampons with such teeth are necessary on technically difficult ice and mixed (rocks + ice) routes.
Antipodlips
A very important addition to cats are “anti-slippers”. In most cases, when climbing, a climber does not deal with pure ice terrain, but with alternating areas of snow, firn, ice, ice covered with snow, rocks, etc. When the snow is wet, it may stick to the crampon block. Snow stuck in a lump on the block negates the effectiveness of the teeth, making slippage and subsequent failure possible. Crampons with snow stuck to them can turn into a deadly trap, so the climber must take all measures to prevent such a turn of events. Knocking snow out of crampons with an ice ax shaft or sticks should be considered a last resort and not a recommended technique. Therefore, no matter what kind of crampons you get, you cannot do without the so-called anti-slip pads, that is, plastic or rubber plates attached to the crampon that reflect the snow and prevent it from sticking to the crampon's pad. All modern cats have anti-stick systems installed right away, but if yours doesn’t have them, it doesn’t matter! Antipodlips are also sold separately.
Shipping
In order not to tear or damage the rest of the equipment while transporting cats, it is convenient to use a special rubber protection for the teeth. You can also purchase a special case for cats. Another option is to make such a cover yourself from a piece of thick fabric (old jeans) or other material that cats cannot tear.
Care and operation
Test your crampons before using them at home before going to the mountains!
- Check for loose bolts or rivets. If necessary, screw it in or replace it.
- Check for worn straps/buckles. Replace if required.
- Make sure the staples are in good condition and fit within the radius of the boot.
- Check the places where the crampons are attached to the boot: does the crampon fit tightly on the back and front welt?
- Carry with you or at least keep in the base camp: iron wire, cord and spare parts (straps, buckles, staples, bolts).
Sharpening teeth
The teeth on climbing crampons need to be sharpened periodically! In “dumb” crampons, when going out on the ice, the risk of a breakdown greatly increases! Cats become dull most quickly when wearing them on rocks. For sharpening, use a regular hand file. You cannot use a sharpening machine, because it overheats the metal, thereby weakening its hardness and strength. Sharpen the edges and the point as sharp as possible, but do not make “needles” out of the teeth - otherwise, when you go to the relief, they will immediately become dull/break. Straighten any bent teeth if possible.
Storage
Most climbing crampons are made of rusting steel, so wipe down and dry the crampons before putting them in the closet. It may be useful to treat them with an anti-corrosion agent (WD-40)
To summarize all of the above, the ideal option for a novice hiker/climber would be crampons with a soft mount, with horizontal front teeth, semi-rigid (not platform!), and with anti-sticks. Example such cats.
As a rule, experienced climbers eventually have more than one pair of crampons for different routes. If you still have questions about choosing climbing crampons in general, or for any specific route, write to us, we will definitely solve them :)
An extremely important piece of equipment for any person climbing into the glacier zone. Crampons make it possible to move where underfoot there is sloping, slippery ice or dense firn that is resistant to the impact of a boot. Modern crampons with front teeth have buried the technique of cutting steps - walking on the front teeth is easier and faster. True, boots also work in tandem with such crampons, but this is a topic for another discussion. Today, crampons come in a wide variety of gear on the market, so there is plenty to choose from. But we must take into account the fact that there is a specialization of cats according to areas of application - there are models of cats intended for competitive ice climbing, for climbing frozen waterfalls and rock walls with sintered ice, for use in performing high altitude climbs, for walking on simple forms ice relief, for use on firn and snow, etc. Some models of crampons can be recommended for climbers, others for freeriders, snowboarders and skiers, and others for walks on gentle glaciers. Of course, the same cats can work under different circumstances, but it is necessary to take into account their specialization. In order to understand the issue of choice, we will consider the design features of cats in detail.
Attaching crampons to the climber's shoes.
Crampons and boots must match each other. This is especially true for cat fastening systems. There are three such systems:
soft (tethered) fastening;
rigid (automatic) fastening;
combined option.
Let's look at all three options in more detail.
Once upon a time, crampons were exclusively tethered, they were secured to boots with canvas straps, and later with synthetic slings. Nowadays, the fastening of such crampons is an elastic plastic cuff at the back, and the same toe part at the front, connected to each other by a synthetic anti-freeze belt. Some options are possible, but general scheme is saved. However, tethered crampons, attached to shoes with belts, are still found. The advantage of crampons with soft fastening is that they can be worn on almost any shoe. Such cats are unpopular today among mountain tourists, and even more so among climbers - they do not sit firmly enough on their legs. Even the best belts and buckles do not provide constant tension and must be tightened periodically. In addition, if the straps are tightened very tightly, with a fairly soft top of the shoe, blood circulation in the feet may be impaired. One of the most common models of tethered cats in our country were the All-Union Central Council of Trade Union cats, designed by Abalakov, in various modifications. These cats can still be found among the equipment available for rental in mountain camps; sometimes they are used by tourists on simple hikes or by beginners.
Automatic, or rigid, is a crampon fastening consisting of a heel latch and a toe part made of a metal rod in the form of a bracket. To protect against spontaneous opening of the heel latch, the heel and toe parts of the fastening are connected to each other with a belt, of course, a synthetic, non-frosting one, equipped with a convenient buckle. Heel snaps best models The crampons are equipped with height adjusters for installing the latch, which significantly simplifies the fitting of the crampon to the boot and improves its fixation on it. Crampons with rigid fastening can only be attached to special mountaineering boots that have a strong welt protruding forward on the toe and heel of the boot. If the boot is made of leather, the welt will most likely be reinforced with plastic inserts. All models of crampons designed for difficult climbing are equipped with just such fastenings, and the same fastenings are typical for most modern models of climbing cats in general.
A fastening consisting of a heel latch (like in “automatic machines”) and a soft toe part (like in tethered cats) is called semi-automatic, or combined. In order for the use of such crampons to become possible, the boots must have a protrusion on the heel or welt, but the toe of the boot can be ordinary, because in front there is not a metal arch, but a plastic toe part, which is not critical to the shape of the sock. This fastening is inferior to the previous one in terms of the rigidity of fixing the crampon on the shoes, but makes it possible to use trekking boots, which are cheaper than specialized mountaineering shoes. Sometimes climbers also prefer such crampon mounts - if insulating shoe covers are put on top of the boots, which makes the use of a metal bow in front unreliable. A similar scheme is used for high-altitude and winter ascents.
The difference between cats is the design of the block.
Crampons are divided not only by the method of attachment to the climber’s shoes. In order to make it possible to use crampons on shoes of any size, they are made of two parts - the front (toe) and the back (heel), interconnected. Based on the method of fastening and the design of the parts, crampons are divided into articulated, semi-rigid and rigid (platform).
Articulated cats.
In such cats, both parts are connected by a narrow plate, which allows you to adjust the cat to the size of the boot, and this plate, rigidly attached to the heel part of the cat, is completely freely attached to the front part, so that the cat can bend, repeating the anatomical bend of the foot. Once upon a time, the soles of mountain shoes were softer than they are now, and the use of such crampons provided significant advantages when walking - the foot was able to bend. When passing through more difficult sections, steps were cut, and the foot was placed on the step on the entire foot, or at least on its entire front part. Today, a completely different technique is used - relying on the front teeth of the cats, and complete mobility of the two parts of the cats relative to each other is completely unnecessary. The soles of modern mountaineering boots are stiff and rigid, the feet in such boots do not have the ability to bend, and the use of articulated crampons does not provide any advantages when walking on simple sections of ice. Even trekking boots designed for heavy trekking in the mountains have soles that are similar in characteristics to the soles of mountaineering shoes. Therefore, the popularity of these crampons, which until recently were used for long treks on relatively simple ice sections, has come to naught these days.
With the increase in the technical complexity of the routes traversed by climbers, the need to use crampons of a new design became clear, having both front teeth directed forward or at a slight angle forward and down, and a rigid platform as a base. Such crampons were designed and manufactured, and a revolution came in negotiating steep ice areas. In fact, now there was no need to cut steps, the steepest sections were passed on the front teeth of the crampons, stuck into the ice, and the rigid platform provided reliable support for the foot and contributed to less fatigue of the lower leg muscles. To be fair, I will say that in this revolution, in addition to crampons, both mountaineering boots and hand tools took a direct part, but more on that another time. Platform crampons are heavier than crampons of other designs, but during difficult climbing this is paid off by reliability and convenience, which is why you can always find platform crampons among crampons from world-famous manufacturers. Platform cats also consist of two parts, shifted relative to each other and fixed with threaded connections.
But still, the main design of cats these days is semi-rigid cats, i.e. cats in which the front and back parts are connected to each other by means of a metal plate that has many holes designed to adjust the cat to the size of the shoe. The plate is attached to the front of the cat in such a way that it has some degree of free movement. In turn, on the back of the cat there is either a socket for a screw with a nut, or a peg on an elastically moving plate. Both elements serve to secure the connecting plate. This design combines the advantages of the previous two, and is used not only in simple firn cats, but also in many models designed for difficult climbing.
Cats differ in the number and shape of their teeth.
Standard climbing cats are twelve-toothed. The crampons have a fairly wide block, horizontally located front teeth, automatic or semi-automatic fastening. Their design these days is semi-rigid. Sometimes such crampons are called firn, although working on ice (except for very hard sintered ice) is also possible in them. It is convenient to make traverses in such crampons and, in addition, they are more convenient when working on snow, since their teeth are quite long, less sensitive to snow sticking, and there is less snow sticking to a crampon of this design. Crampons with fewer teeth are used for walking on glaciers, on simple, gentle forms of ice relief.
Crampons designed for difficult climbing may have fourteen teeth. To work on hard ice, as well as for mixed climbing, crampons with replaceable, vertically oriented front teeth are used. Such teeth, especially those made by forging, enter hard ice much more easily and hold it there more reliably. They are also more convenient when climbing with crampons on rocky areas - mixed, dry-tooling. The replaceable design of the front teeth of such cats is due to several reasons. Firstly, when climbing on very hard ice, and even more so on mixed terrain, the wear of the teeth is significant and rapid, which means replacing them. Secondly, crampons from leading manufacturers have the ability to adjust the length of these teeth, as well as replace the two front teeth with a monotooth, which is more convenient for mixed climbing. Moreover, in some models the monotooth can be moved from the central position to the projection thumb! This placement of the monotooth, according to many, makes it even more convenient to use. Crampons for difficult climbing may also have teeth on the front of the platform, directed at an angle to the heel, and designed for performing pulls. It may be possible to install a “spur” - a heel tooth. The design of such cats is platform (rigid) or semi-rigid. Due to the forged front teeth and a number of features, such crampons are heavier than ordinary twelve-toothed “firn” crampons; walking in them is less comfortable and more tiring. Therefore, such crampons are justified on routes with difficult climbing, although their use on climbs of less difficulty is also possible. There are semi-rigid crampons “G-14”, produced by the Italian company “Grivel”, which have a twelve-tooth arrangement that combines front vertical forged teeth (replaceable) and ten remaining teeth, which have the parameters of firn teeth and are located as on ordinary mountaineering crampons. Thus, a compromise is achieved between climbing and walking in crampons, and between working on different terrain conditions - ice or firn. The above cats are quite popular. Still, it must be said that in some cases crampons with horizontal front teeth may be preferable, especially when the ice is loose or when you have to work on firn. In these cases, the vertically deployed teeth cannot provide proper support; they cut through the melted ice (firn), so the crampons, as they say, “do not hold.”
Let's summarize the above.
A climbing crampon, intended for mountaineering in general, has the following features: its design is semi-rigid, the fastening is automatic, or possibly semi-automatic (in this case it is possible to use insulating shoe covers over the boots). The number of teeth is twelve, the front teeth are horizontal. The cat block is quite wide, the teeth are long. Preferred where heavy climbing is not expected, and on loose ice and firne.
Climbing crampons designed for difficult climbing: their design can be platform or semi-rigid. Fastening is automatic. The front teeth are replaceable, rotated vertically, it is possible to adjust them in length, as well as replace them with a monotooth, which in some models is moved on the mounting axis. There may be additional teeth for better support for the cat and for pulling. As mentioned above, these crampon models can be used for general climbing, although they are somewhat heavy and more prone to snow sticking. The hybrid version is, as far as I know, only the “G-14” from “Grivel”, which combines the features of both types of climbing cats. It is these three options that are the alternatives between which the climber should choose.
Ice climbing crampons.
They are attached to the ice climber's shoes, have a monotooth and a spur, but due to changes in the rules of ice climbing competitions, the latest models are produced without a spur, or make it removable.
There are some hybrids between the ice climbing and mountaineering crampons described above, when the crampon is equipped with vertical front teeth, one or two, but they are not removable; the crampon can be attached to the shoe with screws, but can also be installed on the boot using automatic fastening. Such are, for example, the cats “Dart” and “Dartwin” from Petzl. The same “Petzl” launched crampons with the “SIDELOCK” fastening system, that is, a wire brace not only in the front, but also in the back (instead of a heel latch). According to the manufacturer, such fastening has its advantages over traditional fastening systems. The Sarken series of climbing crampons, from the same Petzl company, is characterized by the use of a similar crampon fastening system and vertical non-replaceable front teeth, made as one piece with the entire front part of the crampon, bright orange.
Crampons for walking on glaciers, ski touring and use by freeriders - snowboarders and skiers - usually have a semi-rigid design and a soft mount. The number of teeth is ten.
In most cases, when climbing, a climber does not deal with pure ice terrain, but with alternating areas of snow, firn, ice, and ice covered with snow. When the snow is wet, it may stick to the crampon block. Snow stuck in a lump on the block negates the effectiveness of the cat's teeth, making it possible to slip on the snow cushion. Crampons with snow stuck to them can turn into a deadly trap, so the climber must take all measures to prevent such a turn of events. Knocking snow out of crampons with an ice ax shaft or sticks should be considered a last resort and not a recommended technique. Consequently, no matter what kind of crampons a climber acquires, he cannot do without the so-called anti-slips, that is, plastic or rubber plates attached to the crampon that reflect the snow and prevent it from sticking to the crampon block. You can make anti-sticks yourself from film, polyethylene foam, plastic, or finally just using tape. All of these are economical options, sometimes bringing good results, but it is still better to use standard anti-stick products produced by cat manufacturers and designed for a particular model specifically. Some companies sell their cats immediately with anti-stick devices installed on them. What else does a climber need related to cats? A bag or case for carrying cats, often such bags are attached on top of a backpack, for example, on a flap. Sometimes they use protection placed on the teeth of cats. You need a good file for sharpening the teeth, perhaps something from spare parts - say, a plate connecting the front and heel parts of the semi-rigid cat to each other. And of course, if a climber uses crampons with replaceable teeth, it is necessary to have everything that makes it possible to turn two front teeth into a monotooth and vice versa. In conclusion, I would like to say this: very often beginners are offered “to begin with” to equip themselves with old crampons of the All-Russian Central Council of Trade Unions or platform crampons designed by Muravyov. Yes, once they were used for difficult and very difficult routes... Yes, once there was no alternative to them... Yes, once they were used by very great mountaineering masters... But now there is no need to use these crampons - modern models are more convenient to use , and often safer.
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